#4979409
gpstar wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 3:17 am Short little video... I tried my best to capture the Proton stream colour changes depending on the power level of the wand. I adjust the stream strength while firing with the top rotary knob to show the effect.

Level 1: More orange/yellow. Each step up more red is added to the stream, by level 5 (full power), it is noticeably more red.

This is still using stock leds that are in the wand tip?
ZLevee liked this
#4979411
Yanks1023 wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 6:08 am
gpstar wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 3:17 am Short little video... I tried my best to capture the Proton stream colour changes depending on the power level of the wand. I adjust the stream strength while firing with the top rotary knob to show the effect.

Level 1: More orange/yellow. Each step up more red is added to the stream, by level 5 (full power), it is noticeably more red.

This is still using stock leds that are in the wand tip?
Yes
kahuna900 liked this
#4979414
Wiggz wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 9:44 am Love what you’re doing here, I don’t understand anything when it comes to the electrics side of things. Will you be adding the smoke option to the vent section at the bottom right of the pack?
Yup it is already in there in a previous video. 3 pins to 5V high during overheat on power level 5, so can wire up smoke, fans etc.
#4979423
gpstar wrote: March 2nd, 2023, 3:23 pm
The_Y33TER wrote: February 27th, 2023, 9:34 am

Hey gpstar, Is there a N-Filter Neopixel option to make the light constant during the vent instead of the strobe? If not, could you add that? Thanks!
Didn’t see your reply. Yes I can update it to make the light constant during venting. I will make that change.
Thank you!
#4979444
As of today I managed to get my pack and wand both 100% working using gpstar’s schematics and software. During my implementation I’ve been assisting with documentation by making the steps a bit easier to digest, adding notes where I got tripped up (to help others avoid my mistakes), and attempting to add formal schematics where I’m capable. Overall the process isn’t difficult if you have some moderate knowledge of circuits and soldering, but it gets very tedious as you work inside the tight spaces of the wand. Personally I found the pack to be an absolute breeze by comparison and if folks only wanted to replace that portion alone it would be worth your effort. But truly, where this shines is when the wand is connected and works just so perfectly with the pack. Given that it’s been about 2 months since many of us got our packs this is some incredible progress and I am so truly amazed at the work put in by gpstar on this solution. I promise some photos or maybe video as I get some of the contents stuffed back into the wand.
jonogunn, SP Productions, Yanks1023 and 1 others liked this
#4979454
I’m nearly done with the wand. I had it functioning until I accidentally shorted out my nano. I have a spare to replace tomorrow. The wand isn’t difficult to follow the schematics, the thin wires from the wand are what I have found to be the most difficult to work with.

I will be starting my pack this weekend, then mating up the two.

Great work on all of the additions to the GitHub . I’ve been re-downloading the daily changes and re-programming the nano when changes are made.
#4979458
seattlebuster wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 9:58 pm I’m nearly done with the wand. I had it functioning until I accidentally shorted out my nano. I have a spare to replace tomorrow. The wand isn’t difficult to follow the schematics, the thin wires from the wand are what I have found to be the most difficult to work with.

I will be starting my pack this weekend, then mating up the two.

Great work on all of the additions to the GitHub . I’ve been re-downloading the daily changes and re-programming the nano when changes are made.
How did u short it out?
#4979478
gpstar wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 11:33 am
Wiggz wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 9:44 am Love what you’re doing here, I don’t understand anything when it comes to the electrics side of things. Will you be adding the smoke option to the vent section at the bottom right of the pack?
Yup it is already in there in a previous video. 3 pins to 5V high during overheat on power level 5, so can wire up smoke, fans etc.

Do you have a link to the video and do you sell that mod?
#4979485
seattlebuster wrote: March 4th, 2023, 12:21 am I had a loose connection at my protoboard. Something touched and then the nano popped.

The small wires from the wand are razor thin, I should have extended all of them instead of just a few.
This was very much the problem I found with the wand as well, and did the extension trick for most everything. In general this is my guidance:
-Remove what you can of any plastic covers over the switches internally, and use a hot glue gun to dribble some glue over the ends of the toggles, rotary encoder, and any other wire connections to reinforce them as they stand.
-Gently separate any wires that are bonded together, allowing about 1" of excess for stripping.
-Use a mechanical wire stripper to ensure you quickly strip back the sheathing for each.
-Use silicone-coated stranded wiring (22AWG down to 26AWG) to allow for maximum flexibility, and solder on extensions to every wire in the wand.
-Use heat-shrink tubing to reinforce the connections and to make a better bond with the stock wire to prevent breakage.
-Continue the extended wire to either a PCB or the Nano for soldering, making sure that ALL of the strands of wire make it through the holes. I too had some strands that I nearly missed which would've caused a short. A magnifying glass and good lighting is your friend!
SP Productions liked this
#4979487
Wiggz wrote: March 4th, 2023, 3:41 am
gpstar wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 11:33 am

Yup it is already in there in a previous video. 3 pins to 5V high during overheat on power level 5, so can wire up smoke, fans etc.

Do you have a link to the video and do you sell that mod?
This older one. I am not happy with how the smoke comes out. I am working on trying to put the nfilter cone on a dc motor to push some smoke out better. I am using vape pens for smoke with a vacuum pump motor. You can really use any smoke setup and use the 5V high pin to switch it on with a transistor.

Last edited by gpstar on March 4th, 2023, 9:55 am, edited 2 times in total.
#4979488
seattlebuster wrote: March 4th, 2023, 12:21 am I had a loose connection at my protoboard. Something touched and then the nano popped.

The small wires from the wand are razor thin, I should have extended all of them instead of just a few.
Those razor thin wand wires are not fun to work with. I am about to tear down a second wand to mod, this time I am going to remove all the wires and replace them with thicker 26awg ones that are easier to work with and more durable.
Tebasaki liked this
#4979492
gpstar wrote: March 4th, 2023, 7:27 am
Wiggz wrote: March 4th, 2023, 3:41 am

Do you have a link to the video and do you sell that mod?
This older one. I am not happy with how the smoke comes out. I am working on trying to put the nfilter cone on a dc motor to push some smoke out better. I am using vape pens for smoke with a vacuum pump motor. You can really use any smoke setup and use the 5V high pin to switch it on with a transistor.
[Youtube]j4sSh8icvwo[Youtube]
Haslab made (mostly) the design of the pack to be modding friendly. I wonder what pump/fan they imagined when deciding on the interior layout.
#4979503
gpstar wrote: March 4th, 2023, 7:27 am
Wiggz wrote: March 4th, 2023, 3:41 am

Do you have a link to the video and do you sell that mod?
This older one. I am not happy with how the smoke comes out. I am working on trying to put the nfilter cone on a dc motor to push some smoke out better. I am using vape pens for smoke with a vacuum pump motor. You can really use any smoke setup and use the 5V high pin to switch it on with a transistor.

If you manage to get the smoke working better on the n filter will you be planning to sell this mod?
#4979532
@gpstar With my 3d printed pack I also had underwhelming smoke. I ultimately I think that the way I had it hooked up gave enough voltage, but it wanted more amperage to heat the vape pen coils. I rewired/swapped some components as it was kind of a mess of a couple kits and got it working better. Might be worth using your vape pen heat coil signal to trigger a relay that feeds power directly off the battery so you get full amperage potential. Of course I have no real backing for thinking this and could be out in left field as well. In my messing around they seem happiest between 4-5 volts to get plenty of smoke, but not have the smoke be to harsh.
#4979539
Beelzebot wrote: March 4th, 2023, 5:44 pm @gpstar With my 3d printed pack I also had underwhelming smoke. I ultimately I think that the way I had it hooked up gave enough voltage, but it wanted more amperage to heat the vape pen coils. I rewired/swapped some components as it was kind of a mess of a couple kits and got it working better. Might be worth using your vape pen heat coil signal to trigger a relay that feeds power directly off the battery so you get full amperage potential. Of course I have no real backing for thinking this and could be out in left field as well. In my messing around they seem happiest between 4-5 volts to get plenty of smoke, but not have the smoke be to harsh.
The problem I was having is the honeycomb structure in the nfilter, specifically the screw in the middle, blocking and trapping the smoke inside. I was blowing the smoke out of the centre of the nfilter cone and it directly hits that screw, blocking a lot of the flow. A fan solution is something I want to play with next when I get to it again.
#4979548
Beelzebot wrote: March 4th, 2023, 5:44 pm @gpstar With my 3d printed pack I also had underwhelming smoke. I ultimately I think that the way I had it hooked up gave enough voltage, but it wanted more amperage to heat the vape pen coils. I rewired/swapped some components as it was kind of a mess of a couple kits and got it working better. Might be worth using your vape pen heat coil signal to trigger a relay that feeds power directly off the battery so you get full amperage potential. Of course I have no real backing for thinking this and could be out in left field as well. In my messing around they seem happiest between 4-5 volts to get plenty of smoke, but not have the smoke be to harsh.
I'm using the vape pen approach with a 3V mini aquarium pump, and just now confirmed I can run it off a 3V relay module. The vape pen (T2 Clearomizer style) uses a 1.8 ohm coil and wants about 3.6-4V to make decent smoke. Meanwhile, the pump doesn't like much above 3V and 4V is pushing it. Since both run for short bursts I've split the difference and found that 3.8V is about right for decent smoke AND to push everything out of the cartridge and so far only the coil gets the hottest of all the components (checked this using a FLIR camera which I use to find unexpected hot-spots on circuits).

For the 3V relay, I've rigged mine so that I have a dedicated DC buck converter taking 12V from a Talentcell battery down to the 3.8V, and runs through a toggle so I can completely cut the power to the converter and anything downstream from it. The relay module has an optoisolator and also allows for powering the relay coil from a separate source from the signal, so I split my 3.8V power to run both the relay coil and the smoke/pump combo (the relay controls the +3.8V to the smoke/pump combo). This allows the Arduino to send a signal (found to work with 3.3V or 5V) at any time to trigger the relay, but if there's no power from my buck converter it's just a no-op (does nothing). This setup with the relay allows the nearly 1amp needed by the vape coil (and pump), so at worst I may only burn out the DC buck converter as the Arduino remains electrically isolated. And if I wanted to use a separate power source just for smoke effects I can easily do that as well.
#4979555
gpstar wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 3:17 am Short little video... I tried my best to capture the Proton stream colour changes depending on the power level of the wand. I adjust the stream strength while firing with the top rotary knob to show the effect.

Level 1: More orange/yellow. Each step up more red is added to the stream, by level 5 (full power), it is noticeably more red.

Hi gpstar!!

probably the color change is opposite of how you're doing it, more power more yellow, less power more red.


in ghostbusters 1, when gozzer is shot, the proton beam is yellow/orange

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cti9SL4GO04 1.55 min

have a nice day! :)
#4979557
Luca Pasin wrote: March 5th, 2023, 11:30 am
gpstar wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 3:17 am Short little video... I tried my best to capture the Proton stream colour changes depending on the power level of the wand. I adjust the stream strength while firing with the top rotary knob to show the effect.

Level 1: More orange/yellow. Each step up more red is added to the stream, by level 5 (full power), it is noticeably more red.

Hi gpstar!!

probably the color change is opposite of how you're doing it, more power more yellow, less power more red.


in ghostbusters 1, when gozzer is shot, the proton beam is yellow/orange

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cti9SL4GO04 1.55 min

have a nice day! :)
Ok changes have been made. thanks.
Luca Pasin liked this
#4979563
JustinDustin wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 5:53 pm As of today I managed to get my pack and wand both 100% working using gpstar’s schematics and software. During my implementation I’ve been assisting with documentation by making the steps a bit easier to digest, adding notes where I got tripped up (to help others avoid my mistakes), and attempting to add formal schematics where I’m capable. Overall the process isn’t difficult if you have some moderate knowledge of circuits and soldering, but it gets very tedious as you work inside the tight spaces of the wand. Personally I found the pack to be an absolute breeze by comparison and if folks only wanted to replace that portion alone it would be worth your effort. But truly, where this shines is when the wand is connected and works just so perfectly with the pack. Given that it’s been about 2 months since many of us got our packs this is some incredible progress and I am so truly amazed at the work put in by gpstar on this solution. I promise some photos or maybe video as I get some of the contents stuffed back into the wand.
This is very encouraging and congrats. Ive been in contact with Gpstar and would like to use you as a reference to do this as well. I do have access to the github, but Im still procuring parts.
#4979596
jonogunn wrote: March 6th, 2023, 1:17 am I probably should have done my research a bit better before purchasing the 24 led ring. It looks a bit small but hopefully it’ll turn out okay.

Image
I am still waiting for my ring to show up, but what I have seen, the 35 that JustinDustin is using looks great.

I will order up a 24 ring soon and add a toggle flag to enable that.
#4979624
Hate to ask this but my spengler wand lights on the wand are out won't light up anymore. 🥺 If someone is willing to help me out I'll pay to have it shipped and pay to have modify it to work. Hasbro won't help. I'm not the best for electronics. I'll pay and if anyone can help out much appreciated. So pissed not going to spend more $ on a new wand.
#4979631
Higs18norcal wrote: March 6th, 2023, 11:35 pm Hate to ask this but my spengler wand lights on the wand are out won't light up anymore. 🥺 If someone is willing to help me out I'll pay to have it shipped and pay to have modify it to work. Hasbro won't help. I'm not the best for electronics. I'll pay and if anyone can help out much appreciated. So pissed not going to spend more $ on a new wand.
Where do u live?
#4979692
JustinDustin wrote: March 3rd, 2023, 5:53 pm As of today I managed to get my pack and wand both 100% working using gpstar’s schematics and software. During my implementation I’ve been assisting with documentation by making the steps a bit easier to digest, adding notes where I got tripped up (to help others avoid my mistakes), and attempting to add formal schematics where I’m capable. Overall the process isn’t difficult if you have some moderate knowledge of circuits and soldering, but it gets very tedious as you work inside the tight spaces of the wand. Personally I found the pack to be an absolute breeze by comparison and if folks only wanted to replace that portion alone it would be worth your effort. But truly, where this shines is when the wand is connected and works just so perfectly with the pack. Given that it’s been about 2 months since many of us got our packs this is some incredible progress and I am so truly amazed at the work put in by gpstar on this solution. I promise some photos or maybe video as I get some of the contents stuffed back into the wand.
Any schematics for the wand side? I see minimal pack schematics, but no wand. Did I miss it?
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