#4966473
CountDeMonet wrote: January 27th, 2022, 2:59 pm You should be able to mess with these variables to set the indexes where they need to be

// LED indexes into the neopixel powerstick chain for the cyclotron. Each stick has 8 neopixels for a total of
// 16 with an index starting at 0. These offsets are because my powercell window only shows 13 leds. If you can show more
// change the offset index and powercell count to get more or less lit.
const int powercellLedCount = 14; // total number of led's in the animation
const int powercellIndexOffset = 1; // first led offset into the led chain for the animation

// These are the indexes for the led's on the chain. Each jewel has 7 LEDs. If you are using a single neopixel or
// some other neopixel configuration you will need to update these indexes to match where things are in the chain
const int c1Start = 16;
const int c1End = 22;
const int c2Start = 23;
const int c2End = 29;
const int c3Start = 30;
const int c3End = 36;
const int c4Start = 37;
const int c4End = 43;
const int ventStart = 44;
const int ventEnd = 47;

Not really coding but where in the chain each light is basically. So if I was doing it the c1Start would be 0 and then adjust the rest of them assuming they are all in the same chain. Then for the powercell offset it would be 1 more than the ventEnd you end up with
Is there a variable that needs to be changed to get the vent lights in the N filter to light up. Everything else seems to be lighting up as it should except for the n filter lights which Failed to turn on during the vent sequence. I checked them prior to wiring them in the chain and they light up I’ve numbered them correctly I believe just not sure what I’m missing
#4966694
Hi there,

What material did you eventually settle on for the cyclotron lenses? I read that you were thinking of using some plexiglass and just scrub one side with sandpaper to diffuse it a little.

I'll be printing the cyclotron parts later on today.

Look forward to finishing printing stuff so I can start putting it together . First time doing this so a big learning curve for me.

Thanks again for all your hard work and effort you put into this. It's great!

Kind regards,

Brett
#4966723
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

I used translucent folders and cut them up for the red color when it's off and cut up a milk carton for the diffuser. The colored lens is exposed while the diffuser is closer to the led. I only put a diffuser on the cyclotron lenses. I used the blue folder for the powercell with no diffuser because I like the look of the led's showing thru there. Seems to match what we see in the movies too.

if you want the color darker you can layer multiple cutouts of the translucent folders. It really works well and looks great. I also used that trick (and the same folders) on my Droid.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WKZH21I/
#4966742
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

CountDeMonet wrote: February 4th, 2022, 6:49 am I used translucent folders and cut them up for the red color when it's off and cut up a milk carton for the diffuser. The colored lens is exposed while the diffuser is closer to the led. I only put a diffuser on the cyclotron lenses. I used the blue folder for the powercell with no diffuser because I like the look of the led's showing thru there. Seems to match what we see in the movies too.

if you want the color darker you can layer multiple cutouts of the translucent folders. It really works well and looks great. I also used that trick (and the same folders) on my Droid.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WKZH21I/
Thanks for the reply. Thats brilliant thanks. I'm printing out the 83% version as is on your github. It's my first time doing it so wanted to start small and work my way up to the large pack. I'll be learning how to finish the parts with filler and sanding etc then finish it with spray paint and a clear coat.

It's mainly gonna be a display piece I think. We'll see how well it fits me as I'm only a short person.

So the milk carton diffuser goes down inside the part lablelled as cyclotron_light_holder_neopixel.stl? and the red poly folder material goes under the part labelled cyclotron_light_covers.stl which then gets glued to the top of the cyclotron unit?

Have I got that right?

I'm guessing that for the 'motherboard' you used a lightish material like 2mm MDF or hardboard?

Many Thanks,

Brett
#4966761
BrettRogersUK wrote: February 4th, 2022, 1:32 pm
So the milk carton diffuser goes down inside the part lablelled as cyclotron_light_holder_neopixel.stl? and the red poly folder material goes under the part labelled cyclotron_light_covers.stl which then gets glued to the top of the cyclotron unit?

Have I got that right?

I'm guessing that for the 'motherboard' you used a lightish material like 2mm MDF or hardboard?

Many Thanks,

Brett
I use hot glue for everything so it's easy to undo. the milk carton circle is really small. You can put the diffuser pretty close to the led inside the cyclotron_light_holder_neopixel part. You will want to play with distance to see where it diffuses the best. The cut circles of red are actually hot glued to the inside of the cyclotron. Then the cyclotron_light_holder_neopixel with the internal diffuser and the led glued on the end is placed on top of the red cutouts and gets hot glued to that. Hopefully that described it the best. A lot of hot glue lol

I found some light weight fiber board at home depot and cut it out of that.
#4966763
CountDeMonet wrote: February 4th, 2022, 6:23 pm
I use hot glue for everything so it's easy to undo. the milk carton circle is really small. You can put the diffuser pretty close to the led inside the cyclotron_light_holder_neopixel part. You will want to play with distance to see where it diffuses the best. The cut circles of red are actually hot glued to the inside of the cyclotron. Then the cyclotron_light_holder_neopixel with the internal diffuser and the led glued on the end is placed on top of the red cutouts and gets hot glued to that. Hopefully that described it the best. A lot of hot glue lol

I found some light weight fiber board at home depot and cut it out of that.
Hi,

That's great. Thanks for the insight.

I look forward to getting it all together.

Kindest Regards,

Brett
#4966807
i been trying to see what type of batteries are good enough to power the whole electronics. I was looking at 7.4V 1100mAh Lipo Battery 15C Rechargeable would that be good enough to power the pack for a few hours ? trying to look for something under 20 buck so been lookin at 7.5 RC car batteries. any recommendations?
#4966817
Hi,

I'm now about 50% of the way through printing. Getting excited now. Should hopefully be finished by the end of the week.

I only have one Ender 3 with Microswiss direct drive and all metal hotend. Printing at 0.2 layer height.

Can't wait to start filling, sanding, filling, sanding and sanding some more and then priming and painting.

All the parts are starting to look great.

Regards,

Brett
CountDeMonet liked this
#4966820
BrettRogersUK wrote: February 5th, 2022, 5:18 pm Hi,

I'm now about 50% of the way through printing. Getting excited now. Should hopefully be finished by the end of the week.

I only have one Ender 3 with Microswiss direct drive and all metal hotend. Printing at 0.2 layer height.

Can't wait to start filling, sanding, filling, sanding and sanding some more and then priming and painting.

All the parts are starting to look great.

Regards,

Brett
can't wait to see how it comes out
#4966983
Question(s):

Been dying to make a pack for myself and my son, and am looking to buy a printer (my company reimburses me up to 500 dollars for tech related purchases) so:

1 - Any recommendations on a printer?
2 - I'm a true lefty, I saw your video on the lefty pack and I squealed a bit (a lot), but for a full size, is it really as simple as taking software and flipping the models? How did you do that?

I'm a fan of arduinos, coding, and ghostbusters, and you just rocked my world, and I just wanted to say thank you.

I can't wait to get started. Any advice?
#4966985
I'm a fan of the ender 3 max. Runs around 275-300. Has good upgrades from the ender 3 pro and prints well out of the box.

You can mirror parts in the slicer. Cura is what I use for that. Slicers take the 3d model and turn it into the code the printer runs to print the object. Most of the slicers out there are very powerful. There are a lot of good models on thingiverse now for the pack that didn't exist years ago.
JDvonAwesome liked this
#4967025
Hi,

I'm printing all the parts from your build on an Ender 3 printer. I've only got the one printer so it is taking a bit of time. But I'm getting there.

I have another question though. I've printed the parts of the cyclotron, how do parts Cyclotron_2.stl and Cyclotron_3.stl fit together after printing? Does 2 fit on top of 3 or does 2 fit inside 3?

I've tried it with 2 fitting inside 3 but the gap produced near the cyclotron vent is quite large so I don't think it is that one to be honest but I want to be sure.

I've only got the syncgen files to print now.

Regards

Brett
#4967062
I probably should ask this on the spirit build but the electronics part I am using in the pack. I ran into a size difference with the wand and the bar graph. I am only able to use th 10 segment display for the size of window the wand is for the spirit pack. Can I just use the 10 segment with the resistor set that’s on the drawing and the arduino code to operate just that one with out running into issues? I will be using less wires so yay me.
#4967065
you should be able to do that but the code would need to be adjusted for the fewer number of led's. The barGraphSequenceOne would be the easiest as that animation is a pretty simple follow animation.

const int num_led = 15; // total number of leds in bar graph

would be the one you want to adjust to get the standard sequence to work with fewer, or more, led lights

barGraphSequenceTwo is harder as it's the firing animation. It's written for 15 led lights so you would need to fiddle with it to get it to look right with 10
#4967068
SO I think I understand what you are saying. your read me file says it assumes that we are using 15. So with that anything that is 5 extra in the code can be eliminated or manipulated to show that its only 10. is that correct?
for example
const byte SX1509_BAR_11 = 10;
const byte SX1509_BAR_12 = 11;
const byte SX1509_BAR_13 = 12;
const byte SX1509_BAR_14 = 13;
const byte SX1509_BAR_15 = 14;

Do these also need to be changed so that it reflects that only 10 are involved in the animation. so 15 would be 10, 14 would be 9, 13 is 8 and so on?

switch (fireSequenceNum) {
case 1:
switch_graph_led(2, LOW);
switch_graph_led(14, LOW);
switch_graph_led(1, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(15, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum++;
break;
case 2:
switch_graph_led(1, LOW);
switch_graph_led(15, LOW);
switch_graph_led(2, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(14, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum++;
break;
case 3:
switch_graph_led(2, LOW);
switch_graph_led(14, LOW);
switch_graph_led(3, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(13, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum++;
break;
case 4:
switch_graph_led(3, LOW);
switch_graph_led(13, LOW);
switch_graph_led(4, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(12, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum++;
break;
case 5:
switch_graph_led(4, LOW);
switch_graph_led(12, LOW);
switch_graph_led(5, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(11, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum++;
break;
case 6:
switch_graph_led(5, LOW);
switch_graph_led(11, LOW);
switch_graph_led(6, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(10, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum++;
break;
case 7:
switch_graph_led(6, LOW);
switch_graph_led(10, LOW);
switch_graph_led(7, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(9, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum++;
break;
case 8:
switch_graph_led(7, LOW);
switch_graph_led(9, LOW);
switch_graph_led(6, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(10, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum++;
break;
case 9:
switch_graph_led(6, LOW);
switch_graph_led(10, LOW);
switch_graph_led(5, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(11, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum++;
break;
case 10:
switch_graph_led(5, LOW);
switch_graph_led(11, LOW);
switch_graph_led(4, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(12, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum++;
break;
case 11:
switch_graph_led(4, LOW);
switch_graph_led(12, LOW);
switch_graph_led(3, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(13, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum++;
break;
case 12:
switch_graph_led(3, LOW);
switch_graph_led(13, LOW);
switch_graph_led(2, HIGH);
switch_graph_led(14, HIGH);
fireSequenceNum = 1;
break;
}
#4967075
by 7 frames you mean the area that is labeled case 1-12. These are for the action of the animation during firing is that correct? This will be interesting to see how it plays out maybe someone can benefit from this info later on. I will keep everyone know the progress. I am going to start wiring up later today or next week.
#4967076
yeah, each case in the statement is a frame of animation. On each frame it lights 2 opposite lights on each side of the bar graph and shuts off the 2 lit on the previous frame. With only 10 led's I'm not sure what the count of frames would end up as. I'd have to write the code to figure it out. You can see the animation here

https://youtu.be/6zqkpiFI1Eg?t=25
#4967147
I got you, this will be the animation pre firing with the led moving bottom up and without the leds moving from outward to center during the firing sequence is that correct ? By the way thanks for the help I am learning more and more about this and it helps a lot getting your input.
Last edited by 2wED1 on February 14th, 2022, 8:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
  • 1
  • 20
  • 21
  • 22
  • 23
  • 24
  • 25

I'd really like to see the new t-shirt unlocks t[…]

Hey and welcome

My Little Pony/Ghostbusters crossover done by my d[…]

Great work identifying the RS Temperature Control […]