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#138191
Adam Bestler wrote:which one would work well with MMM's brackets?
Granted you don't have much thread in a piece 1/8" thick but as long as it's tapped correctly and you don't cross thread it shouldn't be a problem but I can see where the clip on speed nuts would be beneficial if you're going to be taking your shell on and off repeatedly. Finding the correct clip with the 1/4-20 thread (steel thread) and the right length to get it centered on your bracket might take a bit of searching but i'm sure its doable.
#139655
Great idea to add additional threads to the L brackets.

I was thinking of using JB Weld to "carefully" attach nuts to the back of each bracket. The nut would be fastened to the inside of the pack / bracket. As long as one is careful not to get JBW on the threads, the shell could be securely attached and taken apart if / when needed.

That's the plan when I get my next package from MMM.

Ted.
Prefect42.
#139690
irricanian wrote:
Adam Bestler wrote:which one would work well with MMM's brackets?
Finding the correct clip with the 1/4-20 thread (steel thread) and the right length to get it centered on your bracket might take a bit of searching but i'm sure its doable.
The main part you need to worry about being correct is the screw head. Not the thread..
Also, you don't need to find a clip long enough since they are basically all similar in depth, you drill the hole through the bracket, and cut the excess off in order to fit the clip.
Much easier.
#139780
Or you could just do it like I described in this thread, saving you trouble.

I tapped my brackets with a 1/4" tap and while it only cut a few threads it still plenty strong as long as you don't tighten the shit out of the screw and strip the soft aluminum threads.

As for the JB-welded nuts, thats a good idea and it's strong but could break. Thats what I did on my last pack and the whole reason for drilling and cutting threads this time around was to avoid having to do that again.
#146113
I agree, if using nuts, the best bet is to spot weld them to a metal bracket.

The clips might help people out since they are cheaper than buying a tap bit. And you never have any problems with stripped treads.
It all depends on what people have available and what they need to spend money on.
#151182
actually Chris, they are 1/4" shaft collars I got at Ace Hardware.

1/2" seems to be accurate for GB2, I do not know what GB1 used nor what the measurement is supposed to be, so I went with 1/4" because I dont like to have a big space between my back and the pack.

Image
#151349
Oh damn, is that how speed nuts work? I had a hardware guy suggest them to me when I was looking for a bracket, but I looked at them and couldn't figure out how they were supposed to help. I thought they were just weird nuts that maybe were designed to lock into square slots. :-)
#166132
CPU64 wrote:Like mentioned, I also don't trust the threads on aluminum brackets, they strip easily.
This is what I use.
Image
They clip onto the bracket over the hole. Also available for sheet metal screws.
CPU - could you specify which part number clip you use? And is it from http://www.fastener-world.com.tw like the image url suggests?
User avatar
By CPU64
#169335
The ones I recommend are called U-Nuts
http://www.allproducts.com/ee/msf/u-nut.html
If you scroll down, you'll see a link to U Clips which work as well.

These types of nuts are mainly used in securing automotive body panels when assembling cars.
You can find them at any hardware store or auto parts store like autozone or discount auto parts.
Just make sure to look for the smaller sizes since most auto applications use size 6 or 8 bolts.
Here's another list with prices.
http://www.autobodysupplies.com/BodyBol ... sPage1.htm
#173416
vant rivet if i cant get the holes drilled, i am having the damndest time getting just one drilled. any suggestions? I've clamped the bracket in place as well as used loctite a week in advance to get the brackets into position... is it possible the loctite is acting a lubricant, preventing my drill from going any further?
#173422
OKAY! managed to send the bit flying from the drill as i was attempting to finish a hole. Got sparks and the whole shebang.

I am at a loss, not sure how mangled i can let the back (exterior) of one bracket "area" become before i have to replace it.
#173441
sounds like your bit has had it.

get a new one and try again. a good tip to drilling metal, keep your drill on the highest torque setting and keep it at full speed. apply pressure so the drill starts cutting, then let off slightly, apply pressure, let off.

repeat that pattern until you have your clean hole drilled.
#173466
Outer_Arrowhead wrote:OKAY! managed to send the bit flying from the drill as i was attempting to finish a hole. Got sparks and the whole shebang.

I am at a loss, not sure how mangled i can let the back (exterior) of one bracket "area" become before i have to replace it.
I sent you an email with some suggestions, a sharp bit should cut aluminum like a hot knife thru butter. Center punching is the key to successful drilling.
#173520
kind2311 wrote:sounds like your bit has had it.

get a new one and try again. a good tip to drilling metal, keep your drill on the highest torque setting and keep it at full speed. apply pressure so the drill starts cutting, then let off slightly, apply pressure, let off.

repeat that pattern until you have your clean hole drilled.
This thing WAS new, right off the shelf.
#173522
im sure it was, but you can ruin a new bit very quickly if youre not using it properly.

if you're using a cordless drill, it's gotta have a full or near full charge in order to put out the proper amount of torque.
#173783
irricanian wrote:
Outer_Arrowhead wrote:OKAY! managed to send the bit flying from the drill as i was attempting to finish a hole. Got sparks and the whole shebang.

I am at a loss, not sure how mangled i can let the back (exterior) of one bracket "area" become before i have to replace it.
I sent you an email with some suggestions, a sharp bit should cut aluminum like a hot knife thru butter. Center punching is the key to successful drilling.
wont using a larger bit allow the rivets to slide around?
#173910
CPU64 wrote:And don't go fast when drilling metals. Slow drilling keeps your bits from losing temper from high temps.
Use some WD-40 also.
seriously? and when should that be applied?

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