#5009079
Inspired by Ed Spengler’s ultra detailed approach to his Spengler Pack (viewtopic.php?t=51799), and also inspired by all those who made specific character packs, like Chris Bosh and MBurkit, I decided to modify my Spirit full size to an ’84 Spengler. I’ve been doing the same mods to my Haslab wand to make it an ’84 Spengler.

Compared to Ed, I wanted to go with a “used” Spengler.

Initially, my goal was to keep it as simple as possible, by adding a screw here, some paint there…but you all know how this goes…the first round of simple things makes the next round simple…and the more we pore over the details, the more we see…

19 years ago, I built a pack (you can find it here: viewtopic.php?p=31638#p31638). With the work on the Spirit/Spengler, I decided to make my old one an ’84 Venkman. I’ll make a post on that when it is finished. I’ve seen a few people that made ’84 Venkman’s, but there are differences, and since my pack is made of resin and vacu-form plastic, I am not sure how much I can actually safely modify.
Once I finish these 2, my intention is to get the new Fun pack and make that a Stanz. And, boy-howdy, to get a hold of an Anovos (yeah yeah, I know, I know) Super-Hero, I’d only be missing an ’84 Zeddemore…

Now, with any Spirit, great screen accuracy requires a great deal of disassembly and reconstruction.
So, to keep this simple, I tried to work in phases and to keep it simple along the way.

I am almost finished with phase 1.

As of now, I am awaiting some light caps and the push button for the trigger box. I made a backing for the trigger box, and have to cut and install a fake green lever. I am also waiting for the light bar cover, and will replace the upside down sticker next to it.

I am also working on making the vacuum pump base longer; bending the ion rod; placing tape for wires at end of wand, fabricating a ring for the back of the rear cylinder, and a square base for the filter plug.
The yellow sticker near the vacuum pump is upside down, and obviously there are areas needing touch up paint.

After I took my photos, I did another deep dive, and noticed the following:
I changed the location of the F1 sticker on the wand rack.
Ed’s # of ridges 87-89- i have 64 and the tube needs to be longer, so I will replace with a longer split loom.
I noticed the placement of the mounting screws on the bumper are possibly not correct.
I am questioning the location of the placement of the mounting screws on the underside of the cyclotron.

I am unsure if there is both a Phase 3 and 4, but there is at least a phase 3, which involves the disassembly of the pack, the purchase of items, and the subsequent de-and re-construction. But that is outside my scope of time and budget right now.

I am not driven to make this Spirit pack 100% accurate, because of the work and cost involved; but rather for any ghost-head to see it and go: “Wow! Great job at converting the Spirit into an ’84 Spengler!”

At this point, I am looking for critique, feedback, and advice on what to endeavor to change as part of phase 2, 3, and 4; what to accept as-is as a limitation of the Spirit pack; and what I missed along the way.

Of note, I did not utilize any reference photos that were not from GB1 nor from other packs. I relied more on Ed’s packs, and all the other great info on these forums.

Phase 2:
Clean up ribbon cable insert ring
Bevel wand end trigger
Bevel wand banjos
Beveled edges on PPD
Beveled edges on slo-blo box
Remove weld off injector tubes
Making the PPD pimples less prominent
Cutting holes and placing 2 screws in the crank knob
Add filler around bottom bumper spacing after gluing
Add weld to wand top knob and wand handle
Fabricating a mounting plate for the injector tubes.

On the wand, I’m going to paint the red button black and look for a clip-lite to cover the black button.

I’d like to add the wand zip tie is thru a hole in the bottom, but there is no room for this because of the placement to the grip.
I want to figure out how to cosmetically add 3 screws for bottom plate of the wand, but there isn’t room.
Any advice on these 2 things is greatly appreciated.

Phase 3 and 4 include lighting the wand, if not all new sound and lights for the pack and wand. I’d like a more accurate ribbon cable and grip covers.
I know the Spirit pack can be enhanced with different fixtures, knobs and tubes and such, but there are also larger cosmetic issues, like the HGA and bumper. And adding a motherboard, top of motherboard foam, Alice frame, and, if possible, location of where the hose comes out from the body.

Please, go for blood. Any way you can help me make this better is a testament to this community.
If you'd like additional photos, please let me know.

I know we all can’t be active on every post, and I’m sure you all can appreciate that not everyone can always be a part of your journey. But any help along the way is always appreciated.

Thank you!
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Thatcrazysquidguy liked this
#5009082
Will definitely be following this build, sounds like some good stuff is in store.

One thing I’d love to see is a nice texture and finish added to the pack. I feel like what holds the spirit packs back from looking authentic is the smooth plastic finish, adding that (especially the texture) will take to a new level. 👌
#5009083
Will definitely be following this build, sounds like some good stuff is in store.

One thing I’d love to see is a nice texture and finish added to the pack. I feel like what holds the spirit packs back from looking authentic is the smooth plastic finish, adding that (especially the texture) will take to a new level. 👌
#5009085
that is a solid and very welcome insight! thank you.
that is so big-picture, it didn't occur to me...i'm still in the trenches debating over the trigger bevel and screw location.

relatedly, and i did this with my traps, (but not my haslab wand or this pack) is to dremel off the manufacturing info and filling in the manufacturing screw holes...so there isn't even a hint this thing was mass produced.

on that note, i've already tackled most of phase 2...i'll post pics once that phase is finished, which will be when the light caps and bush button arrive.

i've gone down some etsy holes for phase 3/4, and i want to do it so badly, but i don't have it in me now to take this bad boy apart and cut him up. maybe after the summer...
Thatcrazysquidguy liked this
#5009113
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Lot's of solid work the past few days...and i did a deep dive on the '84 venkman...currently working thru "the proton pack is not a toy" series on his '89 venkman mods....im stoked, but nervous to touch my 19 year old pack.
"Do these lights still work?"
"Everyone can relax...the lights still work."

On to this pack...I worked thru my list.
What I liked most was placing real set screws in the crank knob cover.
I have to scrape off the yellow sticker, and will get lemon oil tomorrow. I hate to have ruined this sticker, but I have a better replacement.
I look at these photos, and the changes are so subtle...I'm ordering grip covers tomorrow, and have been looking into making my own GB1 ribbon cable. Could these products work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283294423625?c ... gJPzvD_BwE

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192164940670?c ... BWQjcIk0ww

This week:
-dremel
make injection tube plate
clean up rear bumper
injection tube weld
ppd pimples
ribbon cable insert ring

-add filler
weld to wand top knob and wand handle
around toggle switches
area by mount

add post to better support injection tube
finishing painting n-filter spots white and place screens

I need help with the following, please:
wand zip tie is thru a hole in the bottom of the wand, but it doesn't seem i can do this because of the the grip placement.
add 3 screws for bottom plate of the wand, but there isn’t room.
bevel wand end trigger- I’m not sold on this; I think it was beveled for gb2, not gb1.
bend ion arm
bellows color

-Phase 3
Is doable, but not now.
I'd light the wand, if not all new sound and lights for the pack and wand. And if I'm taking it apart, it'll need a motherboard, top of motherboard foam, Alice frame, and to change where hose comes from the body.
And at that point, might as well use the help of the great group on etsy, and address the larger cosmetic issues- terror dog designs, great scott prop shop, betsy loops. Any feedback here is very very appreciated.
HGA; ion arm; booster & frame; ppd
bumper & cyclotron- taco belli
spacers- see terror dog designs
and get different fixtures, knobs, tubes and such.
I think this will make the biggest impact on this pack, and I may pull this trigger sooner rather than later...

where is the line, smokey?

"I'm close on this one."
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Thatcrazysquidguy liked this
#5009116
I've done a bit of footwork on some details you're looking for.

Bellows color:

This is a picture of an original OEM bellows from Brad Davis, looks like a light brass color to me.

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Compare with the bellows on the Super Hero pack.

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Bent ion arm rod:

I have this feature on my own pack. I just clamped the end cap down then muscled the thing until it was bent to my liking. This was done on a GBfans ion arm rod, not sure what the setup on the spirit pack is. Bend at your own risk!

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Hope this helps!
#5009118
Thank you!
I tried to bend that tube, and it did not go anywhere! it's such a great little detail. I'll get it to go...somehow....

The last thing I did last night was give the outer rings of the bellows a brass color...it really brought spirits ugly part to life.

The more I assess the pack, the more phase 3 becomes important. I may be able to do some of it easily, like replace the injection tubes and loom and the ppd tube and loom. And the banjo set up on the wand.
I'd rather not cut off the clippards and legris and such if they can be better removed when replacing the motherboard.
But the legris's don't look terrible. It's the tubes, brass fitting and 2 sage resistors which are really limited...i'll look around, unless anyone has any direct links to come good sellers. I don't need authentic parts to be satisfied.
Thatcrazysquidguy liked this
#5009168
another WIP

the red pack tubing is 3/4, not 5/16, which I may address. and I went with a darker blue for that tubing. I like it better...
the spacers I built are in...barely visible on photos, but very effective in real life.

what i dislike so much is the filter plug area...it is so different than a real pack.
and i just noticed the size of the n-filter stickers.

i was able to get some cable and am going to make my own GB1 ribbon cable. Advice is welcome, and if the operation is a success, I'l gladly assist however I can in mass production.

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