- May 19th, 2025, 2:30 pm#5004567
I’ve decided to split off all talk about my FE Goggles and Drone trap controller from my other thread because it was really specifically for the battery compartment mod. viewtopic.php?t=52406
So to cut a long story short after my made my GB1 inspired Ecto Goggles by using The Goons 3d files I wanted to make a second goggles using the knowledge (and mistakes) I learned from the first.
After printing the elements and beginning assembly I decided to pivot to the Frozen Empire variant because you don’t tend to see too many of them about. I used the shell I’d already printed to experiment with hole sizes and placements and began making some changes to The Goons design using reference images but retaining my own spin on it like the blinking red red (that isn’t screen accurate) and battery mod.
Of course you can’t have the drone goggles without the controller… so I need to make one of those too.
Unlike Afterlife’s polaroid versions, the FE goggles are actually quite similar to GB1. The changes that I’ve made to The Goons files include a larger hole on the left side in order to add a WiFi antenna. This is to be Panel mounted to the goggles via a mini coax connector to allow the antenna to screw onto it.
The side knobs I’ve moved ever so slightly and then enlarged so I can install some real potentiometers there. They won’t be connected to anything but they will profile a satisfying thumb twiddle when you turn them rather than just being static glued on.
In the centre of the googles I believe is a cliplite clb300 clear lens with a black rubber washer. They are easy to find items in the uk and given so much of the propmaking was done here in England it’s more likely to be something like that than vintage American components.
Lastly underneath is a Db-15 female connector… which brings me onto the drone controller.
The connector is plugged into what I initially thought was a Saitek PX2500 which is an old aftermarket PlayStation controller from the 90s. I concluded this based on some of the images from the Sony display that I found on the ghostbusters reference library clearly show the
symbols on the pads.
I started modifying one of these controllers by changing the orientation of the buttons to match the source imagery and adding a toggle with red shield.
After spending a ridiculous amount of time the other night trying about 4 different toggle or button types trying to work out how to mechanically fit the trigger shield to the controller without resorting to glue, designing and 3d printing various spacers and adapters and ultimately gave up at midnight. But then I lay in bed unable to sleep thinking of alternative ways. Eventually slept and woke up early Saturday morning, straight to the workshop and boom. Sorted.
I’ve wired up the LEDs but not connected them to anything yet.
I've ordered a connector which looks close enough and he’s the db-15 standard pin layout 7 on top 8 on bottom. I'd like to run power through it so that switching on the goggles also switches on 3 LEDs in the controller.
My entire circuit will be very simple. It will consist of a 6v power supply (2x cr2032 batteries), one white static LED, one white flashing LED, 1 standard red LED and 2 rectangular red LEDs. If these are run in parallel then the coin cells can power them just fine. I considered something fancy with an arduino but I don’t think it needs it.
One thing I’m not sure about is how to attach those antennas apart from big globs of glue/resin because I can't panel mount them easily with a locking nut as the shell of the controller is split in two right across the gap where they need to go. I might need to 3d print a little spacer or something. I shall experiment more.
So to cut a long story short after my made my GB1 inspired Ecto Goggles by using The Goons 3d files I wanted to make a second goggles using the knowledge (and mistakes) I learned from the first.
After printing the elements and beginning assembly I decided to pivot to the Frozen Empire variant because you don’t tend to see too many of them about. I used the shell I’d already printed to experiment with hole sizes and placements and began making some changes to The Goons design using reference images but retaining my own spin on it like the blinking red red (that isn’t screen accurate) and battery mod.
Of course you can’t have the drone goggles without the controller… so I need to make one of those too.
Unlike Afterlife’s polaroid versions, the FE goggles are actually quite similar to GB1. The changes that I’ve made to The Goons files include a larger hole on the left side in order to add a WiFi antenna. This is to be Panel mounted to the goggles via a mini coax connector to allow the antenna to screw onto it.
The side knobs I’ve moved ever so slightly and then enlarged so I can install some real potentiometers there. They won’t be connected to anything but they will profile a satisfying thumb twiddle when you turn them rather than just being static glued on.
In the centre of the googles I believe is a cliplite clb300 clear lens with a black rubber washer. They are easy to find items in the uk and given so much of the propmaking was done here in England it’s more likely to be something like that than vintage American components.
Lastly underneath is a Db-15 female connector… which brings me onto the drone controller.
The connector is plugged into what I initially thought was a Saitek PX2500 which is an old aftermarket PlayStation controller from the 90s. I concluded this based on some of the images from the Sony display that I found on the ghostbusters reference library clearly show the
symbols on the pads. I started modifying one of these controllers by changing the orientation of the buttons to match the source imagery and adding a toggle with red shield.
After spending a ridiculous amount of time the other night trying about 4 different toggle or button types trying to work out how to mechanically fit the trigger shield to the controller without resorting to glue, designing and 3d printing various spacers and adapters and ultimately gave up at midnight. But then I lay in bed unable to sleep thinking of alternative ways. Eventually slept and woke up early Saturday morning, straight to the workshop and boom. Sorted.
I’ve wired up the LEDs but not connected them to anything yet.
I've ordered a connector which looks close enough and he’s the db-15 standard pin layout 7 on top 8 on bottom. I'd like to run power through it so that switching on the goggles also switches on 3 LEDs in the controller.
My entire circuit will be very simple. It will consist of a 6v power supply (2x cr2032 batteries), one white static LED, one white flashing LED, 1 standard red LED and 2 rectangular red LEDs. If these are run in parallel then the coin cells can power them just fine. I considered something fancy with an arduino but I don’t think it needs it.
One thing I’m not sure about is how to attach those antennas apart from big globs of glue/resin because I can't panel mount them easily with a locking nut as the shell of the controller is split in two right across the gap where they need to go. I might need to 3d print a little spacer or something. I shall experiment more.
Last edited by Mercifull on May 19th, 2025, 3:27 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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