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I've been building a set of The Goon's Ecto Goggles and I wanted to add a little flashing red light to the corner where he's modelled a hole. However I wasn't so keen on stuffing a load of batteries inside the face shell of the goggles themselves. So I've designed and modelled an upgrade to put a hidden compartment there.

It utilises a 2x CR2032 battery compartment from ebay and I designed a new "knob" that goes over it like a cap and also adds the metal surround as seen on the GBfans version. https://www.gbfans.com/shop/goggle-part ... ith-strap/

My design (which is available on Makerworld) consists of three separate pieces;

• The "metal" base as depicted on the real night vision goggles but missing from The Goon's design
• The battery cap which glues over the top of the compartment lid
• The nub which just needs a dab of glue in the peg hole

It utilises a CR2032 battery compartment which sits neatly within the metal base. You will need to drill a small hole for the wires to feed into the main face part of the goggles and then glue this down. The nub is printed as a separate piece to make it easier to print, avoiding issues with print quality once supports are removed. Simply glue this onto the main battery cover cap. Then lastly glue the battery cover to the unscrewable part of the CR2032 compartment. Once all that is done you can easily wire a simple circuit, I used a 200ohm resistor and a self flashing LED.






It's slightly larger than the original knob on The Goons files but I needed to remake it in order to incorporate the other components. It's not hugely different, maybe half a cm so hopefully not very noticeable. Because it's designed to fit the real-life button-cell compartment I had to take some creative liberties but overall it's not noticeable especially as it is on the underside of the goggles.



Still need to make the head straps... no rest for the wicked.

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After making my goggles my daughter decided that hers (my old ones) were rubbish in comparison. They were the cheap plastic toy ones that you can pick up for about £15.

I drilled some holes into the casing to add decorative screws, snapper buttons and added the same 3d printed knobs and battery pack as above.

She’s much happier now haha.


P.s I’m well aware there is no red light on the 84 goggles but there was a hole in the Goons files (I think his source for making the face part were from a set of night vision goggles he had with an IR sensor) and I added one to mine. And therefor my daughter demanded a red light on hers.

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I finally added head straps to my goggles. I literally spent hours failing to sew it all together. I just could not get the sewing machine top tension, lower tension, bobbin, walk speed, stitch length combination right. In the end I just used more snap poppers to effectively rivet the webbing to the neoprene rubber back.

Lots of lessons learned from making these. I have enough material to make a second set which I have already started. I need to modify the Goons file again a little more so that I can move the side knob holes slightly more inwards. This is so that I can use some panel mounted potentiometers to give those knobs a satisfying twist functionality.

I am also going to use olive green webbing and some metallic stickers for some extra shine.

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I’ve been experimenting with a goggles shell that didn’t print entirely correctly and I’ve decided to make my second set of goggles Frozen Empire style.



This means I’ve had to modify the Goons' goggles to have some larger holes in certain places and new holes in others as well as the other tweaks id made for twiddlable side knobs. The FE version is fairly similar to 84 style (unlike the Afterlife polaroid version) and pretty much just have a bingfu WiFi antenna on the left side, some sort of lens in the middle and a cable port of some sort underneath. Cabling will come out from the antenna, through the cable tie and into the back. It won’t actually be connected to anything, it’s purely decorative.



I wasn’t 100% sure on what the whitish/clear lens thing was in the middle of the front but given the usage of modern uk-findable off-the-shelf parts used for other aspects of the production, I settled on a clear cliplite CLB300 with a black rubber washer.

The images weren’t clear enough to ID the exact type of cable so I’ve gone for vga simply because they’re easy to find.

The controller, I think, is a Saitek PX2500 originally for PlayStation. There is a Saitek P750 which is almost identical and comes with a combined pc gameport and usb connector on the end of its cable, but gameport... ports... are hard to find these days. Plus, that version contains the letters ABCD on the pads and the bts footage shows clearly /\ O X [] but with the x and square swapped around and angled to make a cross and a diamond.

I’m going to use another bingfu WiFi antenna and also a vhf/uhf telescopic antenna along with a red toggle. Most of the rest is just decorative cabling.



I think I’ve got everything I need to start building, apart from a toggle for the bottom, which I need to wait for before modelling the right-sized hole in the goggles shell. Hopefully, that comes soon, and then I can print and assemble everything.

[Nomake Wan]

Not sure if this helps any, but here are much higher-resolution and significantly less blurry shots of those goggles for you from the bluray.







As for the connector, it looks to me like an old MIDI game connector, AKA a DB15. Like one of these: https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/ps11 ... dp/CS17341

Or one of these (again, DB15):

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Thanks that’s super helpful.

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Chat about my drone goggles and controller split off to viewtopic.php?t=52460

Please use this thread only for talking specifically about the battery compartment knob thingy. Thanks.