[Nuclearjungle]

ImperialWalker, I bought some bullet latches inexpensively on Ebay, so I'd recommend checking there before resorting to an acorn nut.

[ImperialWalker]

Good idea. I checked earlier today and it was the same issue. There seemed to be only one listing I could verify were the correct ones, but it was the same issue. Either it was being offered in packs of 10+, was the wrong model, or the shipping was nonsense to Canada.

I just emailed two local K&V distributors to see if they could get them in stock, so I'll have to wait and see.

In the meantime, I'm fine with 3D printing one if I can get the exact specs. The Acorn nut looks silly now and I already took it off.

[westies14]

For anyone who'd like to model or fabricate the part, here are some reference pics and dimensions: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/e26s6woro45r ... gRmHa?dl=0

Note that the round protruding "bullet" can be dialed in and out for different depths, and on the prop it's sitting much further inside the body/shell than it is in these pictures.

[ImperialWalker]

Brilliant! Thank you.

I'll get to work on that straight away.

[ImperialWalker]

For anyone who'd like to model or fabricate the part, here are some reference pics and dimensions: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/e26s6woro45r ... gRmHa?dl=0

Note that the round protruding "bullet" can be dialed in and out for different depths, and on the prop it's sitting much further inside the body/shell than it is in these pictures.

Sorry to bother you. Could you verify the diameter of the hole, the thickness of the rim, and if possible the distance between where the dome starts and the bottom of the hole? Also, does the hole go all the way though?

[westies14]

The hole does not go all the way through - it’s just a point to get leverage for rotating it (which sets its height, like a screw). I thought those measurements were taken at the time - if there aren’t pics of them I may have only noted them. I’ll check!

[ImperialWalker]

Worked a bit on this. I think it is pretty close, except I don't know the thickness of the lip, or the hole size/placement.

The rest should be as close as I can get without schematics.



What I am thinking is that I'll make a version of this that is shorter and flat on the bottom. I think it should also be two pieces for ease of printing and also so it can be positioned wherever the user wants.

I also have to test if this can be printed on an FDM printer. If the walls are not thick enough I may have to opt to make it a solid object.

[mburkit]

This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Excellent work!

Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but I am wondering where one might find that "bullet latch?"

It is one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Knape-and-Vogt ... Sw1qtgHVvB

Knape and Vogt 903 3/8 Inch Diameter Drive-In Ball Cabinet Catch

[mburkit]

Got my second pedal done. Just need to find some way to get my hands on a vinyl version of that white label that goes on the side!

Thank you for this excellent build log! It pointed out some stuff I had never noticed and it inspired me to update my pedal kit.

First, this may come in handy - Ken Chung & I just finished a set of trap/pedal labels with the GB1 pedal sticker - my shop link is in signature.

Awesome, I ordered some labels then!

[ImperialWalker]

For anyone interested, you can download my version of the bullet latch for 3D printing here.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4772769

[ImperialWalker]

This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Excellent work!

Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but I am wondering where one might find that "bullet latch?"

It is one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Knape-and-Vogt ... Sw1qtgHVvB

Knape and Vogt 903 3/8 Inch Diameter Drive-In Ball Cabinet Catch

Appreciate the link, but it does not ship to Canada which seems to be the issue with this latch. Local distributors also don't seem to carry it. I ended up modelling and printing a resin version.

[abaddon5]

Does anyone know how the tubing is connected under the pedal on the GB2 version?

[Nuclearjungle]

In this picture I took at SDCC, it looks like the tubing terminates right near the hinge, possibly stuffed into the back of the bullet latch hole.

[dannyrosario]

Walmart Ghost trap upgrade

I bought the pedal to ghost trap hose kit from Charlesworth but need to know what size are the brass fitting male connectors and how to run the wires through it.

[tobycj]

Walmart Ghost trap upgrade

I bought the pedal to ghost trap hose kit from Charlesworth but need to know what size are the brass fitting male connectors and how to run the wires through it.

Assuming he is selling Foster connectors with that kit, then the thread size on them is 1/8 NPT. No idea about running the wires through it, but there are probably other threads in this forum that may cover that. This thread specifically pertains to a scratch built pedal, rather than modding an off the shelf Walmart one.

[Kukem]

I feel bad posting in an old topic, but it seems to be the right place. I can't figure out how to install the bellows for the pedal. Can anyone explain or show a picture of how to do it? I looked through a few places and can't seem to find it....

Edit: sorry, I found some info. Apologies, everyone.

[mburkit]

I feel bad posting in an old topic, but it seems to be the right place. I can't figure out how to install the bellows for the pedal. Can anyone explain or show a picture of how to do it? I looked through a few places and can't seem to find it....

Edit: sorry, I found some info. Apologies, everyone.

With my 2 pedals, I did it 2 different ways. For the pedal that is for display only in my collection, I installed the bellow how I feel it was done originally for GB1: I glued the bottom of the bellow to the wooden base of the pedal. For the pedal that is for my belt hanger, I installed the bellow how it was on some of the GB2 pedals; I used picture wire that is attached to the vector plate, through the bellow, and secured through metal plate on the bottom of that pedal. I did this second one like this because this pedal will hang from my belt so I wanted that pedal built more securely than just glue.

[SpikeAPD]

Thanks to the original poster for inspiration as I completed my build. I don't know how to upload images but I wanted to share some wisdom on differences I found from the versions I saw posted in this thread compared to the prop photos. I used the GB Reference Library on Facebook to research prop photos, which is what seems to be the basis for the model here. 1) The 26-pin ribbon on the GB1 pedal did not have a red stripe. It was present on the retro fitted GB2 pedal but you won't find it on the GB1 pedal. 2) You need to pull the pins out of the cable connector, the original poster left them present on his build but you can even see them removed in the prop photos in this thread. They pull right out with some pliers. The cable will stay in pressure fitted even without the pins to connect to it. 3) The proper bolts to mount the cable connector to the plastic Hammond box are 4-40 indented hex head bolts. They exactly match what was used on the original prop vice the nuts that you can see on this version, that looks like he mounted from the inside vs the outside. These bolts are a little tricky to track down but not impossible. 4) The four screws to secure the lid of the plastic Hammond box are slotted not Philips head; they are Phillips head on the metal box. You can see in the prop photos in the library and even at the top of this thread there is clear single slash and not a cross. The correct size is 4-40 slotted 1/2 inch bolt. These are really hard to find, and might have been a hardware item from the '60's/'70's requiring you to track down vintage screws, which was the solution in my case. You'll have to use a large screw driver with a tiny head to get some torque as they don't go in easy but neither do the screws that come with the box. Lastly, 5) in order to get the proper four-segment hinge for the pedal that you see in the prop photos, you'll have to make it custom. It is a piano hinge, cut to size. You can see in the side shot in the prop photo gallery that the screw mounting hole is cut in half indicating these hinges were cut to size and not a standard make. Piano hinges are available at big box stores like Home Depot. After you cut them to four segments, you'll have to pinch the ends a little to keep the pin from sliding out. The devil is in the details and the hardware really helps take it to the next level so I thought I'd share for anyone looking to get a little more accurate.