#4973092
Hi,

When you made your pack and did the frame for mounting it, did you happen to make a note of how long the pieces had to be etc? And what size pvc pipe did you use to make the frame.

Did you use straps from a backpack or did you use Alice frame straps? I'm on the finishing straight with my pack now but it's the 80% one that I got from your github. I don't think it'd look right on a full size Alice pack.

Thanks,

Brett
#4973102
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

I used 3/4 inch pvc pipe and fittings. I bought some straps off of Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SKLK6A

it was a while ago so you'll probably have to find another. I don't have the exact measurements. I pretty much winged it and tried to make it fit my son's back so the spots that touch the back where near his shoulders and the back brace area on the lower back. The frame I built several years ago no longer fits him now that he's 12. I would probably try to mount it to a real alice frame now if I was doing it again. The home built one was not very comfortable for him.
#4973105
BrettRogersUK wrote: October 4th, 2022, 9:54 am Hi,

When you made your pack and did the frame for mounting it, did you happen to make a note of how long the pieces had to be etc? And what size pvc pipe did you use to make the frame.

Did you use straps from a backpack or did you use Alice frame straps? I'm on the finishing straight with my pack now but it's the 80% one that I got from your github. I don't think it'd look right on a full size Alice pack.

Thanks,

Brett
The spirit packs are about 80% scale and look fine on an Alice frame :)
#4973106
BrettRogersUK wrote: October 4th, 2022, 9:54 am Hi,

When you made your pack and did the frame for mounting it, did you happen to make a note of how long the pieces had to be etc? And what size pvc pipe did you use to make the frame.

Did you use straps from a backpack or did you use Alice frame straps? I'm on the finishing straight with my pack now but it's the 80% one that I got from your github. I don't think it'd look right on a full size Alice pack.

Thanks,

Brett
Lost wax has an awesome guide on how to make an Alice frame out of PVC. Maintains the shape and look of an Alice frame too. You can just scale it down to 80% and it’ll look right.


This is what I plan to do for my spirit pack as I don’t look how it looks on a standard sized Alice frame.
#4973107
jonogunn wrote: October 4th, 2022, 5:30 pm
BrettRogersUK wrote: October 4th, 2022, 9:54 am Hi,

When you made your pack and did the frame for mounting it, did you happen to make a note of how long the pieces had to be etc? And what size pvc pipe did you use to make the frame.

Did you use straps from a backpack or did you use Alice frame straps? I'm on the finishing straight with my pack now but it's the 80% one that I got from your github. I don't think it'd look right on a full size Alice pack.

Thanks,

Brett
Lost wax has an awesome guide on how to make an Alice frame out of PVC. Maintains the shape and look of an Alice frame too. You can just scale it down to 80% and it’ll look right.


This is what I plan to do for my spirit pack as I don’t look how it looks on a standard sized Alice frame.
I might do this. The thought of making it out of pvc pipe appeals to me. I can't find an alice pack in the UK less than £100. So this will be the way to go I believe. I've got the plans for the original alice pack from Stefan otto. I will look for the lost wax one though.

Thanks,

Brett
#4973108
BrettRogersUK wrote: October 4th, 2022, 5:34 pm
jonogunn wrote: October 4th, 2022, 5:30 pm

Lost wax has an awesome guide on how to make an Alice frame out of PVC. Maintains the shape and look of an Alice frame too. You can just scale it down to 80% and it’ll look right.


This is what I plan to do for my spirit pack as I don’t look how it looks on a standard sized Alice frame.
I might do this. The thought of making it out of pvc pipe appeals to me. I can't find an alice pack in the UK less than £100. So this will be the way to go I believe. I've got the plans for the original alice pack from Stefan otto. I will look for the lost wax one though.

Thanks,

Brett
Forgot to post the link for you:



The important thing is using his technique which is genius
CountDeMonet liked this
#4973830
I have and Issue with my Bargraph I initially had it at a 10 led and got a MOD wand and changed it to a 15 led like Counts. It works on idle doing its standard animation. Then when i fire it seems to wor just fine but when i release it will leave a random led on the 5 led set of the bar graph. Each time its a different one. It’s like it won’t reset the leds in that set. However when i repress the fire button it will go away and restart the animations but of course leave one on again once i stop. Any one have a clue to what might be happening.?
#4978317
Hey Eric i wanted to ask you in your code am i able to switch the theme and the power switch from d5 theme sw, d6 startup sw to d13 and D8 the reason i am doing this is to add a rumble motor with a potentiometer utilizing d5 and d6 that uses PWM. D5 will be the new fire button D6 will connect to a resistor ,transistor ,diode, and cap to the motor. A6 will be used for the potentiometer. i have included a schematics and the code. i haven’t changed the original code yet i am not sure where to place it?
thanks
Ed

// inputs for switches and buttons
const int FIRE BUTTON
= 8;
const int Relay pin = 13;

void setup (){
// inputs for switches and buttons
// set the modes for the switches/buttons
pinMode (FIRE BUITON, INPUT) ;
digitalWrite (FIRE BUTTON, HIGH) :
pinMode (Relay pin, OUTPUT) ;
}
void loop ()
{
if (digitalRead (FIRE BUTTON)==LOW);{
digitalWrite (Relay pin, HIGH) ;
}

else {
digitallrite (Relay pin, LOW);
}

}
Image
#4978923
The setup is pretty simple. You would just put that where the other pins are initialized. For detecting the fire and end of fire events you would look

here for the start of the firing sequence
https://github.com/CountDeMonet/Arduino ... h.ino#L328

and here for the end of it
https://github.com/CountDeMonet/Arduino ... h.ino#L372

Hope that helps
#4979711
2wED1 wrote: February 16th, 2023, 2:46 pm Awesome sir thanks also, Also is it possible to separate the light sequence in the wand, for instance turning on a switch to just power the graph and hat lights and trigger a sound. Another switch to just power the vent light and trigger a power up sound ?
Sorry, I saw your note but forgot to finish my response. Yes, it is possible to do what you want. The wand lights are handled with this variable

wandLights

I wrote helper functions to easily allow changing the lights. Search for

setWandLightState(3, 0, 0); //set sloblow red

which will give an example of how to use it.

You can also add switches but that will require you to update the code to handle it and the new sequence.
#4993036
Hi I was haveing problems with the arduino because it worked when it was all on the bread board but since then I’ve been soldering it together and was wondering if I house the arduino in the wand are the out puts of the arduino getting thinned when they go through the 6.5 feet of 22 gauge wire the neo pixels and sound board are just not detecting them. 2 does the whole thing still work if you don’t have everything connected say you have the switches and the pack electronics but not the bar graph or sound board. 3 the neo pixels that I have used to work on the bread board but after I soldered them together they just flash random colors is this do to the long wires? Or they Broke after I soldered them together or is it something else entirely?
#4993092
I ran into similar issues when I was building this. I tried different thicknesses of wires and different ways of shielding them but could not get a stable connection from the arduino in the wand to the sound board and neopixels in the pack. I did find that I could still control the lights in the wand if I put the arduino in the pack. I'm guessing the distance is too much for the power of the arduino but there were also serious shielding issues and cross talk.

The second item, if you are using the full code with bar graph then it is going to look for the io board on startup and not allow it to proceed if not found. You can comment out the initialization code for the io board and everything else should function.

If the neopixel worked before soldering then I would double check everything. Maybe reflow the solder. Could be a weak connection somewhere
#4993597
Thank you so much it finally works now I’m not quite sure what was wrong because I tried placing a separate battery in the wand but it still didn’t work but when I moved the arduino to the back pack it worked perfectly. I also was having an issue with the bar graph module but that’s seems to work now too thank you!
CountDeMonet liked this
#4994569
I never got to the point of troubleshooting the communications issues. I remember seeing a pretty significant power drop from the pack to the wand but that was good enough for the neopixels. I never did try to get the io board to work as my wand was smaller and couldn't fit the bargraph. The spark fun board only requires 3v so I'd check what you are seeing at board there. I'm going to guess it's still above 3v. If that is the case you may be having some cross talk occurring. That was what was appearing to happen with the audio board when I was controlling it from the wand. All of the data the Arduino was seeing from the board was junk over distance with the led's running
#4998122
Hello there! Back in the beginning of 2020 I found this thread and started quite successfully, thanks to the Count's help, putting my back together. The a whole bunch of crazy stuff happened (I'm sure we all remember!) and I had to shelve things. Well, the 40th anniversary is in a few weeks, and since I live just a short subway ride from the firehouse, I'm going and I want to finish my pack!

Things seem to be going well, but I'm suddenly running into an issue. The buck converters are failing on me, dropping the voltage down to 1 or less and getting very hot to the touch. It will start out fine, I'll switch it on and off as I test things, and then I'll switch it on at a certain point and it's super hot and it's failing to output almost any voltage. This only started when I began wiring in my wan lights. I've replaced them a few times now, tweaking the wiring a little bit each time, but I'm getting the same result. Any ideas what could be happening? Do I need to raise the output voltage above 5, to account for the draw of the leds? Would that account for the extreme overheating?
#4998140
It sounds like there might be something with your wiring if they are over heating. The LED's require very little power and I've never seen them get warm. If you can share some pics of your wiring of the led's and maybe just focus on one strand, either the power cell or cyclotron, we can determine what's going on. Definitely shouldn't see a big draw.
#4998248
Major progress! I redid a lot of my wiring, and I've got lights and sounds going. Super cool!

The problem I'm having now it that when I add in the barcode version of the sketch, it goes kaput. I tested power, and there is about 4.3V going into the SX1509, but no cool little running lights. And of course, that also keeps everything else from doing anything. If I upload the other sketch, without the bargraph, it works again.

I'm using a Mega2560 board, and I'm plugging the SCL plug into the SCL pin on the Arduino, and the SDA from the SX1509 into the SDA on the Arduino. I haven't made any changes to the code.

Where do you suggest I begin my trouble shooting? Do you have any other ideas? This is the last piece of the wiring puzzle for me, so if I can get past this hurdle, I'm all set!
#4998252
The SX-1509 requires 3.3v not 5v. The arduino has a 3.3v output that I used for my setup. The code with the bargraph has a hard stop in it during bootup if the communication with the sx-1509 fails. You can see that in the code here

https://github.com/CountDeMonet/Arduino ... h.ino#L171

So my guess is that you have either blown the sx-1509 with too much voltage, or there is a communication problem with the arduino. This document helps explain the sx-1509 pins and how to properly hook it up the the arduino

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/sx ... okup-guide
#4998255
Hello I'm working on a 3d print proton pack for my 4yrs bday. I have purchased all the parts from your list. I know nothing about Arduino. I know how to do all the wiring looking at your diagram. Need help with the programming what are the file/s in need to upload into the Arduino from your GitHub. Im using your diagram with bargraph. Any help is much appreciated
#4998257
I'm still getting nothing.

I wired it up just as you said, and it won't recognize the board. I even tried it with just the board, no leds, and it still won't recognize it. The voltage going in is 3.36.

Should the address be changed in the setup code? Is there a jumper I should be closing? I'm running out of ideas.

And I know I've thanked you a lot, but if you're ever in New York City, I owe you a beer.
#4998266
There is a section in the docs for the sx-1509 that talks about the address and how to change it. Look for the section "Address-Select Jumpers"
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/sx ... okup-guide

The board defaults each of those pins to GND, which sets the I2C address to 0x3E. To set either jumper to "1" (HIGH), grab a hobby knife, cut the trace connecting to "0", and blob some solder between the center pad and "1".

All that being said, this project doesn't require multiples of these boards so I have the code set to look at the default address in this code
https://github.com/CountDeMonet/Arduino ... ph.ino#L17

// SX1509 I2C address (set by ADDR1 and ADDR0 (00 by default):
const byte SX1509_ADDRESS = 0x3E; // SX1509 I2C address

The voltage should be fine, and I also verified that it can handle up to 5.5v even though 3.3 is the preferred. How long are the communication wires?
#4998267
Icemanmbz wrote: June 2nd, 2024, 2:05 pm Hello I'm working on a 3d print proton pack for my 4yrs bday. I have purchased all the parts from your list. I know nothing about Arduino. I know how to do all the wiring looking at your diagram. Need help with the programming what are the file/s in need to upload into the Arduino from your GitHub. Im using your diagram with bargraph. Any help is much appreciated
I would recommend starting with the spirit minimal code and work your way more advanced. The minimal version just handles the lighting for the cyclotron and powercell but is a great introduction to working with arduino and the neopixels.

https://github.com/CountDeMonet/Arduino ... itMinimial

look at this tutorial on uploading a sketch to an arduino

https://support.arduino.cc/hc/en-us/art ... rduino-IDE
Icemanmbz liked this
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