#4978478
The neopixels is just the kind of thing I was thinking too. I'm going to be kitbashing my own cyclotron and internals rather than just painting the ones already in there. I love the idea of having lighting that can sortof show what is happening inside when the pack is operating.
The occasional misfire in the internal sequence would be something I'd look at adding too. a weird color burst on one jewel in the code loop that goes off randomly with a delay of at least a few minutes.
I'm thinking of my pack as being one that was used for training, then sat in storage for a long time, and now has been pressed into service. Far too many inexperienced users and abuse. The Millennium Falcon of proton packs.
jonogunn, gpstar liked this
#4978497
I chained up 8 Neopixel jewels to go inside a cyclotron. They are set to light up when the lid is removed. When the lid is removed, sound effects play. (see video below)

I also added lights into cyclotron switch plate, which sync up (the 6 lights on the side) with the speed of the cyclotron, ramping up and down or flashing depending on what the pack is doing. the other 2 lights relate to the the 1984/2021 mode switch and the vibration switch. I synced up some sounds to the inner switches, but I may remove them as I do not feel they add anything and or perhaps find other sound effects for the modes changes... hmmm...

#4978518
gpstar wrote: February 7th, 2023, 11:35 am I chained up 8 Neopixel jewels to go inside a cyclotron. They are set to light up when the lid is removed. When the lid is removed, sound effects play. (see video below)

I also added lights into cyclotron switch plate, which sync up (the 6 lights on the side) with the speed of the cyclotron, ramping up and down or flashing depending on what the pack is doing. the other 2 lights relate to the the 1984/2021 mode switch and the vibration switch. I synced up some sounds to the inner switches, but I may remove them as I do not feel they add anything and or perhaps find other sound effects for the modes changes... hmmm...

YES!! That’s exactly the action I wanted to see with the lid removed, and the ramp-up on the light sequence is perfect. I agree the current switch sounds are almost overkill and lost against the actual sound of the mechanical switches. Maybe when switching the modes you get either a Slimer growl for OG84 mode and Mini-pufts cheering for AL21.
gpstar liked this
#4978530
ALgaePants wrote: February 7th, 2023, 4:07 pm Quick questions. As I finish your speaker and power mod, what are you putting inside the pack to keep the speakers and possibly your talentcell from shifting or moving when it's all put back together?
At the moment nothing as everything has been apart for the last few weeks. The talentcell was held in fixed by the back side of the d-cell battery tray. The same with the speakers by the motherboard as it was a very snug fit. I will probably do something for the speakers when I finish with the current project I am working on.
#4978531
dankramer1138 wrote: February 7th, 2023, 9:18 pm gpstar, you are amazing. That's a wonderful visualization of the cyclotron activity.

How many board do you have controlling all of this? With all the parts on the table, I can't tell how many control boards you have interacting to do all of this.
This is all coded in Arduino, correct?
Yes correct, Arduino.

A Mega 2560 Rev 3 for the pack and a Nano in the wand. Then 2 sounds boards (Wav Triggers). One in the wand and one for the pack.
#4978535
gpstar wrote: February 7th, 2023, 1:56 am
jonogunn wrote: February 7th, 2023, 1:41 am If u use a ring can u use a 40 led one? I have a couple of those
Will it fit in a cyclotron? It looks like there is around 125mm outer diameter and 75mm inner diameter to play with. (though looks like could possibly go down to 40mm inner diameter).
Sorry for the late response. This is how it compares.

I missed the post to how you are modding cyclotron. How and where are you planning to put in lights?
Image
#4978538
jonogunn wrote: February 8th, 2023, 12:30 am
gpstar wrote: February 7th, 2023, 1:56 am

Will it fit in a cyclotron? It looks like there is around 125mm outer diameter and 75mm inner diameter to play with. (though looks like could possibly go down to 40mm inner diameter).
Sorry for the late response. This is how it compares.

I missed the post to how you are modding cyclotron. How and where are you planning to put in lights?
Image
What’s the inner and outer diameter of that NeoPixel ring ? It looks it may or may not fit?

I saw some 32 or 36 pixel rings but they seem to be a odd size that nobody really carries.

I am thinking of doing up a 3D printed cyclotron instead of modding the Haslab one. Undecided yet…
#4978549
jonogunn wrote: February 8th, 2023, 12:51 am OD: 125.8mm
ID: 108mm

Just to confirm for this mod the cyclotron and smoke vent and any other addons other than the basic wand/pack lights/sound are optional right?
Correct, all the extra add-ons are optional and are not required.

I will search for some NeoPixel rings to see what sizes work good, and have a toggle flag in the code you can change to switch between the 8 chained NeoPixel jewel option or a specific NeoPixel ring if you put lights in your cyclotron.
#4978550
jonogunn wrote: February 8th, 2023, 12:51 am OD: 125.8mm
ID: 108mm

Just to confirm for this mod the cyclotron and smoke vent and any other addons other than the basic wand/pack lights/sound are optional right?
There is 128mm to play with in the Haslab cyclotron. Though there are these 4 lips which the lid guides onto which will get in the way. The diameter between them is 115mm. That is if you use the Haslab cyclotron.
Image
#4978560
For what it's worth, TacoBelli is working on several mods to the cyclotron internals. He's already created a version of the control panel for the toggles which accepts lights, and is still designing a new cyclotron cake. I'm not trying to promote his stuff over anyone else's, but in the modders' group on Facebook there's definite interest in replacing the stock "cake" with a new 3D model that has pre-cut holes for viewing (might take a piece of frosted plexiglass or 3D printed lens for diffusion) and would be a drop-in replacement for the HasLab item. I would expect the dimensions to be similar but without all the internal bits blocking use of a Neopixel ring or similar.

tl;dr: there's definite interest in making the innards of the cyclotron more interesting, and I would expect the community to create a better version of everything while still sticking to the original dimensions, so expecting 128mm as a standard size is likely safe.
#4978576
jonogunn wrote: February 8th, 2023, 6:51 am Gpstar. Are you waiting to complete everything before you release the mods or is there any chance of getting the essentials first?

Also will you be using the loop connector end cap that came with the wand? I seem to have lost mine
For the most part, aside from smoke and a NeoPixel ring to code in which can wait, the essentials are ready.

I have pretty much settled on the parts and it has enough pins to expand and update the code to add smoke and a NeoPixel ring after. I am just spending rest of this week cleaning up the code, looking for any bugs, little tweaks to the sounds and firing modes, and then assembling everything into the pack and wand, testing things etc. Then I will put it out there.

As for a hose, I haven't settled what I am going to do yet. I have some Neutrik connectors I may modify for the wand end, and thinking of using Amphenol MS3106A14S-2P and MS3102A14S-2S for the pack side of the hose. I will decide next week and order then.
Yanks1023, Peeno liked this
#4978578
JustinDustin wrote: February 8th, 2023, 5:44 am For what it's worth, TacoBelli is working on several mods to the cyclotron internals. He's already created a version of the control panel for the toggles which accepts lights, and is still designing a new cyclotron cake. I'm not trying to promote his stuff over anyone else's, but in the modders' group on Facebook there's definite interest in replacing the stock "cake" with a new 3D model that has pre-cut holes for viewing (might take a piece of frosted plexiglass or 3D printed lens for diffusion) and would be a drop-in replacement for the HasLab item. I would expect the dimensions to be similar but without all the internal bits blocking use of a Neopixel ring or similar.

tl;dr: there's definite interest in making the innards of the cyclotron more interesting, and I would expect the community to create a better version of everything while still sticking to the original dimensions, so expecting 128mm as a standard size is likely safe.
I was going to model one up, but it seems people are on it already. There is also one already on thingiverse which just needs to be scaled up a tiny bit which is easy enough.

Out of curiosity I tossed in the lights in the Haslab one...
#4978580
Sorry if this was covered already, I have read all the posts but didn't find anything specific.
I'm going to add a shoulder strap mounted control box, so I can control smoke and other functions from my chest strap.
One thing I would like to do is wake up the pack from the control box. I believe there are 2 cables going to the red switch, can I just cut one and add a remote on/off switch, or is there more work required? I figure the board is just looking for a power interruption on that circuit and if I leave the red switch on, I should be able to wake up the board by cycling the switch on my control box.
Also, I want to put the smoke emitter in the spare compartment and route it out the ribbon cable hole (my plan for now). Is there a route between the compartment and ribbon cable hole big enough for a 1/2 hose for smoke?
And lastly, are there any other functions that you suggest controlling from a chest mounted control box? I was thinking about moving the sound effects control switch, but I believe that isn't just a simple on/off switch.
#4978623
How did you open that so cleanly? I'm trying to pry the top off, and it seems to be glued in place.
gpstar wrote: February 8th, 2023, 3:45 am
jonogunn wrote: February 8th, 2023, 12:51 am OD: 125.8mm
ID: 108mm

Just to confirm for this mod the cyclotron and smoke vent and any other addons other than the basic wand/pack lights/sound are optional right?
There is 128mm to play with in the Haslab cyclotron. Though there are these 4 lips which the lid guides onto which will get in the way. The diameter between them is 115mm. That is if you use the Haslab cyclotron.
#4978624
dankramer1138 wrote: February 8th, 2023, 10:51 pm How did you open that so cleanly? I'm trying to pry the top off, and it seems to be glued in place.
gpstar wrote: February 8th, 2023, 3:45 am

There is 128mm to play with in the Haslab cyclotron. Though there are these 4 lips which the lid guides onto which will get in the way. The diameter between them is 115mm. That is if you use the Haslab cyclotron.
I used this triangular pry tool that comes with mobile phone repair kits. You just work your way around the cyclotron to break the small glue bond. You just press/wedge it in and out (push it in and then pull it out and repeat) between the lid and the cyclotron body, no need to pry or lift. You will hear a popping sound as the glue bond is released each time you wedge it in. Then pull it out and continue in another spot, working your way around it. It comes apart very quickly.
Image
#4978639
georgenovak wrote: February 8th, 2023, 9:36 am Sorry if this was covered already, I have read all the posts but didn't find anything specific.
I'm going to add a shoulder strap mounted control box, so I can control smoke and other functions from my chest strap.
One thing I would like to do is wake up the pack from the control box. I believe there are 2 cables going to the red switch, can I just cut one and add a remote on/off switch, or is there more work required? I figure the board is just looking for a power interruption on that circuit and if I leave the red switch on, I should be able to wake up the board by cycling the switch on my control box.
Also, I want to put the smoke emitter in the spare compartment and route it out the ribbon cable hole (my plan for now). Is there a route between the compartment and ribbon cable hole big enough for a 1/2 hose for smoke?
And lastly, are there any other functions that you suggest controlling from a chest mounted control box? I was thinking about moving the sound effects control switch, but I believe that isn't just a simple on/off switch.
For the power switch, what you mentioned should work. At this point it's probably easier to just unplug the red switch from the board and run a new wire/connector onto the board from your chest switch.

The volume control is a rotary encoder and it is soldered onto the board (the wires, the encoder is soldered onto a mounting board behind the crank knob), so soldering and desoldering will be required for that one if you want to tap into the motherboard with a new one.
georgenovak liked this
#4978642
gpstar wrote: February 8th, 2023, 9:22 am
JustinDustin wrote: February 8th, 2023, 5:44 am For what it's worth, TacoBelli is working on several mods to the cyclotron internals. He's already created a version of the control panel for the toggles which accepts lights, and is still designing a new cyclotron cake. I'm not trying to promote his stuff over anyone else's, but in the modders' group on Facebook there's definite interest in replacing the stock "cake" with a new 3D model that has pre-cut holes for viewing (might take a piece of frosted plexiglass or 3D printed lens for diffusion) and would be a drop-in replacement for the HasLab item. I would expect the dimensions to be similar but without all the internal bits blocking use of a Neopixel ring or similar.

tl;dr: there's definite interest in making the innards of the cyclotron more interesting, and I would expect the community to create a better version of everything while still sticking to the original dimensions, so expecting 128mm as a standard size is likely safe.
I was going to model one up, but it seems people are on it already. There is also one already on thingiverse which just needs to be scaled up a tiny bit which is easy enough.

Out of curiosity I tossed in the lights in the Haslab one...
that honestly looks great. I'd be personally happy with that over the extra effort of 3d printing another or modding the existing one.
#4978648
-I started adding smoke. It will let off a little bit of smoke while you are continuously firing, then of course during overheat it runs longer for more smoke. I have more ideas on the smoke, but at the moment I took a vape pen out of my ghost trap and using that with a small pump. Any smoke machine using 5v will work and can be triggered on or off. With the sound of the pack, you can't hear the pump. I 3D printed a rough draft of a new n-filter cone and the smoke pours out of that at the moment. However I have more ideas I will try later on, such as adding a small led or NeoPixel jewel in the n-filter to light up the smoke during overheat cycles, and I would like I put a small dc motor attached to the n-filter cone to spin the cone while the pack is smoking (longer term goal). In the end I think I will keep the vape pen near the Power Cell storage door for easy access to refill, and hook it up to the 5v power supply of the pack. It is something I will come back to after things are finished as this will do for now.

-Added more colours to the inner cyclotron lights based on the firing mode.

kahuna900, Kingpin, toy203 and 2 others liked this
#4978652
gpstar wrote: February 9th, 2023, 4:24 am For the power switch, what you mentioned should work. At this point it's probably easier to just unplug the red switch from the board and run a new wire/connector onto the board from your chest switch.

The volume control is a rotary encoder and it is soldered onto the board (the wires, the encoder is soldered onto a mounting board behind the crank knob), so soldering and desoldering will be required for that one if you want to tap into the motherboard with a new one.
Completely replacing the red switch is an interesting idea. I have a kit to make those connecters, so that is easily done. I have some Normally Closed push button switches on order that I may try first. That way, I won't get a conflict between the two switches. One will be the original toggle and the other an interrupt. Will see how it goes.
Moving the sound control is an interesting idea. I'll check some pots I have around to see if they will work. I wanted a dial of some sort in the chest control box. May also see if I can do something about the mooing motor while I'm in there. I wonder if they make a gyroscope that would fit in there? Could be interesting.
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