[55_Central_Park_West]

The Haslab pack has arrived here in the UK at last. My initial thoughts are very good. Very well produced pack for a mass produced product. I found the vibration motor is too loud so switched that straight off.

Boy, this equipments heavy! I knew it would be heavier than my cardboard pack but not this heavy. I don't think I could walk around a con for a few hours with this on.
Why are there no hex bolt heads moulded into the ion arm? Seems like a simple job...
How come the brass connectors are not painted? Again seems simple... obviously these are mods I could do myself but I want to keep this 'factory' for now.

The mini puffts are well painted and very cute. The rubber marshmallow add-ons I do not particularly care for and will not use. The stand works well and solves the problem of how to display the pack.

The options to change sounds and dismantle the cyclotron are very good to have, and also the option of ALICE frame mounting.

I have removed the straps and mounted the pack to my ALICE LC1 Rothco frame. Time will tell how well that goes.

Overall I'm very happy aside from the above niggles. I guess I'll just have to man-up on the weight issue!

[tobycj]

The weight with an alice frame and wand is probably going to be under 19lbs, my pack weighs 29lbs and isn't too bad to wear at a con all day. Unless you have back problems this should be a dream to wear.

[UEF]

The weight with an alice frame and wand is probably going to be under 19lbs, my pack weighs 29lbs and isn't too bad to wear at a con all day. Unless you have back problems this should be a dream to wear.

I can answer that definitely having framed it up yesterday -

the whole thing, with Spengler wand and Rothco frame, is 18.8lbs - call it 19!

While I was doing the frame I had the back off it to remove the two(!) extra afterlife cables (there's a subtle black one behind the OTHER black one with yellow sheath on it) and turn the ribbon cable the right way round. The frame went on really easily but for anyone taking it apart, the thing inside the cyclotron is structural! as are the two sticky out tube things above it. Once all those are lifted off the back will come off (once you've removed about 15 screws)

[AGiantSlor]

Amazing, thank you for sharing your finds! Adam Savage just posted an hour long discussion/modding/weathering tutorial on his Haslab Pack!

Meanwhile, I've had Fedex slips from Hasbro on my account since 1/5, but they haven't shipped. Ordered 10/21/21

[kind2311]

Adam Savage just posted an hour long discussion/modding/weathering tutorial on his Haslab Pack!

Thank god. The weathering on these is pretty bad. A lot of it is clearly large paintbrush streaks.

[rolandblais]

I'm really liking my pack so far, but there's going be quite a bit of painting and/or re-cabling. Wires are all black molded plastic and I need to have them colored

The only real complaint I have is the janky hose connection to the pack. If I look at it wrong it will fail and I can no longer turn the pack on via the wand. If I tap the side of the pack sometimes it will work; it seems like the cyclotron cover is also sensitive to positioning and have to be just right to work. I've read some other posts about the connection issue, and that the connector needs to be really tightly inserted. We'll see if some long term solutions are found.

I'm not super impressed with the cyclotron so that was my first mod

[buster126]

Woah, I'm loving your cyclotron! My aim was just to pop some wires over the molded ones and maybe something over the fake brackets as well (I have yet to do it) as I've focused on the outside so far. For me I just want to make what's on it look like the real stuff(fake real stuff) with just paint and glue.
I might replace that yellow wire cover thing though, I do admit it looks a little meh compared to the correct one. I just need to tone down some of the silver now, bring it back just a step, I'm noticing a few spots that are too heavy handed or just not flowing well. I covered the molded tape with real tape, painted a few parts, added a sock over the hose (lol). Simple stuff.

[kman]

That yellow hose sheathe is the only thing absolutely *screaming* to be fixed. (which is pretty great, overall) Fortunately a few seconds with a can of flat black, and it's MUCH better.

Lots of little things to nit-pick about, but the overall impact is absolutely incredible, for something mass produced in a factory.

[rolandblais]

Replacing mine with yellow FlexoPet. A bit scarce at the moment but it'll be back eventually.

[gamera1968]

The weight with an alice frame and wand is probably going to be under 19lbs, my pack weighs 29lbs and isn't too bad to wear at a con all day. Unless you have back problems this should be a dream to wear.

My homemade cardboard pack weighs roughly 25 pounds with the Spengler wand attached, so I can deal wearing my HasLab pack for most of the day. And today I finally got the email from Haslab w/ the tracking number for delivery this Friday. (1/20/23)

[One time]

Woah, I'm loving your cyclotron! My aim was just to pop some wires over the molded ones and maybe something over the fake brackets as well (I have yet to do it) as I've focused on the outside so far. For me I just want to make what's on it look like the real stuff(fake real stuff) with just paint and glue.
I might replace that yellow wire cover thing though, I do admit it looks a little meh compared to the correct one. I just need to tone down some of the silver now, bring it back just a step, I'm noticing a few spots that are too heavy handed or just not flowing well. I covered the molded tape with real tape, painted a few parts, added a sock over the hose (lol). Simple stuff.

Looks great!

What did you use to weather the electrical tape sections (blue, red and yellow electrical tape). That black weathering looks so good.

BTW: Here is a tip for the hose going into the cyclotron. Cover the thread with silicone grease. It helps with the tightening and loosening of it. And I don't think you need to make it insanely tight. All hoses just have an issue where the pins don't connect super great.

[virusxero]

My pack had some issues at first with the connection too. Like I could flip the first switch and the wand would power on, flipping the second switch and the bar graph would come on. Third switch (below the intensify button) and it'd shut the pack off completely. But it wouldn't do it all the time. Sometimes the pack would work perfectly, others it'd fail. I was experimenting and noticed that the position of the hose mattered when attempting so that lead me to the connection to the pack as the primary issue for me.

I put a thin strip of black electrical tape on the nozzle around where the pins slide into on the pack (without blocking the raised tab section to ensure it only fits one way). Since then I haven't really had any issues with that happening.

Beyond that though the pack is amazing to me. I don't care if the weathering is like super detailed. (I'd actually kinda rather there to be a bit less weathering. I'm debating taking a magic eraser with some isoproply alcohol to the ribbon cable to take some of the grime off it. )

[austerebat]

My pack had some issues at first with the connection too. Like I could flip the first switch and the wand would power on, flipping the second switch and the bar graph would come on. Third switch (below the intensify button) and it'd shut the pack off completely. But it wouldn't do it all the time. Sometimes the pack would work perfectly, others it'd fail. I was experimenting and noticed that the position of the hose mattered when attempting so that lead me to the connection to the pack as the primary issue for me.

I put a thin strip of black electrical tape on the nozzle around where the pins slide into on the pack (without blocking the raised tab section to ensure it only fits one way). Since then I haven't really had any issues with that happening.
funny shooter
Beyond that though the pack is amazing to me. I don't care if the weathering is like super detailed. (I'd actually kinda rather there to be a bit less weathering. I'm debating taking a magic eraser with some isoproply alcohol to the ribbon cable to take some of the grime off it. )

I think overall it still works perfectly.