Overall, I'd give it an 8.5 out of 10. The cast came pretty clean and only needed minor finishing, and it looks great.
I think it looks all right. Like it is composed of different materials.
To finish the thrower, I needed to add the brass arm between the ignition box and body. That was a total pain. I somehow found a piece of brass-ish rod that was the perfect diameter. I don’t know what it originally came from (maybe an axel inside a printer for the rollers, or a slide track for an old DVD player), but I had been using it as a stir-stick for various adhesive compounds. Using wire cutters, I snipped the gunky ends off and fit it into place. It is slightly fatter than the piece of wire clothes hanger I was going to use, so that worked out. I also fixed the bottom switch decal.
ThrowingChicken’s wand kit came with resin banjos, but not screws. I went to Lowes and found some super-cheap nylon furniture screws that fit the thread on the GBFans aluminum trigger tip, which actually solved two problems. So, I snipped/sanded the heads into more of a hex shape and painted them with a gun-metal color. I drilled out the banjos using a threaded bit so that they could actually sink into the resin and the trigger tip and hold in place.
Another tricky situation was how to get the clear wand tip to stay in place inside the gun. I’m not using a pop mechanism, and there are not lights, so I glued the acrylic tube to a length of wooden dowel that was long enough to reach the front handle mounting hole located under the Clippard. Again, using a threaded drill bit, I made a hole and fit the screw in tight. Perfect. That allowed me to affix the trigger tip, the banjos, and the red tube that connects them.
Then, I secured the gun mount to the shell and the hook to the bottom of the thrower plate. I went with the GB1 style.
Then it was time for a test fit to make sure all the screws on the gun mount were flush and that the thrower could move freely on the track.
I finished up the wand with the cliplites ordered from GBFans and painted the top vents, again, for some color.
Time to finish this up.
Mounted the motherboard to the ALICE frame, then mounted the shell. After that, it was only a matter of slipping the thrower on.
Since I’m not using electronics right now, I opted for the faster alternative and used the same method I did for the ¾-inch loom from the crank generator to the vacuum line by having a small section of dowel that the hose can slip over and hold tight. I still need to trim about 6-9 inches of loom; I think it’s too long. Anyway…
Ladies and Gentlemen, I give you…
Full disclosure: I haven’t put it on yet. When I finished, I was just in sweats and it didn’t feel right, you know?
Thanks for all who made this possible: A J Quick and the GBFans shop for having exactly what I needed when I needed it (especially this close to Halloween); BenofKent for the excellent bumper (which I managed to screw up and then fix) and the bellows; Karnivorous Kreations for the booster plug, Clippard, and crank knob; my friend Rhett for the resin Legris elbows; GBHQPartsDepot for the resistors; Mack’s Factory for the decals; heavyprops for the acrylic gun tube, bizarrojerry (ebay) for the correct ALICE frame; and alleghenyoutlet (ebay) for the correct pack straps.
And thanks to YOU for coming along. It doesn’t matter if you are reading this days/months/years after I posted. I read plenty of build threads from 5, 10, even 12 years ago. And, as I said the beginning, I’ve been haunting these boards for 15 years.
Darth_Egon wrote: ↑November 7th, 2020, 8:21 pm Did the throwing chicken wand come with all the screws need for assembly? Also amazing build!!!Thank you!
The wand did come with screws, but I found that some were incorrect. For example, the kit was supposed to come with a small sheet metal screw to attach the rear handle to the resin body from the inside. But I received one that was 3/4-inch, which would have come out the top of the wand, so I had to buy some of those. Also, the cap head screws I received were stainless, requiring painting to be correct. Luckily I had a few of the 10/32 left from the pack for the handle. But all in all, it was a really good product and I do plan on upgrading to all aluminum in the times to come.
Time to break it down, now!
Since I've never done ANYTHING with electronics, especially ones this small, I was wondering if it was possible to hot glue things. Like could I hot glue the LED into the Slo-Blo light cap from inside the wand, or will it fry the wires? What about the board? I have a few other things in mind, but if I can hot glue, I may go that route instead.
Side question, what size did you drill your holes for the switches and push button? I've asked elsewhere but I want to make sure I've got the right size as I'm still waiting for my kit but want the holes ready to go.
Front cylinder had to go to make way for the new one.
Coping saw took care of it nicely, while keeping close to the body so that there wouldn’t be much need for sanding.
Next, that heatsink had to go, too. But not because I’m replacing it (just yet).
Again, the coping saw did fantastic at keeping the cut flush. It did, however, take me one full episode of Amazon’s INVINCIBLE to get all the way through it, so not a speedy choice.
The reason I’m messing with the heatsink at all is because I was inspired by Freakygeeky’s design for their thrower with the access panel under the heatsink to help with getting to the electronics.
First, though, I needed to remove the side knobs.
With those gone, I used the Dremel’s rotary cutting tool to cut the resin away, and then sanded it down, making sure not to extend beyond the outline of the heatsink.
There is going to be a structural integrity issue at the bottom, and I plan on resolving that once I get the lights and circuity installed.
After that, it was time to remove the plugged vent holes and the opening for the bar graph.
For those not aware, the TC wand body’s opening for the bar graph is too tall and too narrow for the GBFans light. I used a file wrapped in sandpaper to widen the opening so that the graph will fit snug, but I’m going to have to use a filler on the top and bottom.
A quick test fit for width shows the difference in length.
Why am I doing all of this? Because, as I said, I’m upgrading the wand with official parts as I go, dependent on release/availability/funds.
Hat lights should be arriving today, so I’ll be able to start installing the actual lighting.
SpiderFan2k3 wrote: ↑May 10th, 2021, 12:18 pmI'll be using the gbfans kit same as you, just wondered if the holes you had drilled accommodated it.l3w1sb159 wrote: ↑May 6th, 2021, 10:43 pm Side question, what size did you drill your holes for the switches and push button? I've asked elsewhere but I want to make sure I've got the right size as I'm still waiting for my kit but want the holes ready to go.
Keep in mind that the holes were only drilled to accommodate cosmetic switches and buttons, and may not be the correct size for any electronics you buy. I used a 7/32 bit for the stiches and a 1/8 for the Intensify button.
Also, I'd love to throw my money at someone for an aluminum wand body/kit.
That will depend on how accurate you want to make […]
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