Have a guide or tutorial? Post it up!
#4884426
Here is what I have determined from my trials with this kit.

1) The firing mechanism does not work if you try to wire the audio using the "With Pack Hum" method
2) Half of the wiring from the original tutorial is backwards. A majority of this for the LEDs.
3) If you leave the sound effects (Ghostbusters song) switch on during shutdown it will play the song when using the vent switch the first time. So turn off the switch before shutting down.
4) As has been said multiple times; If you wire the sound using the "Without hum" method you must reverse the white wire (green wire on mine) and red wire or the firing button will fire when released and stop when pushed.

I hope this helps!
#4888653
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

I've managed to fry the soundboard in this kit (voltage regulator failed and gave it 12V). I tried reaching out to Crix for a replacement via email, Ebay, and Facebook with no response. I can find a replacement board (http://www.ebay.com/itm/WT588D-Programm ... 3641.l6368), but have no idea how to program it.

Does anyone here have any experience with this guy that might e able to help?
#4888677
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Xaq wrote:I've managed to fry the soundboard in this kit (voltage regulator failed and gave it 12V). I tried reaching out to Crix for a replacement via email, Ebay, and Facebook with no response. I can find a replacement board (http://www.ebay.com/itm/WT588D-Programm ... 3641.l6368), but have no idea how to program it.

Does anyone here have any experience with this guy that might e able to help?

All communication stopped for me when I sent him a video about my lights being fried. I've written it off as a loss at this point.
#4888706
That's too bad. He still seems to be selling kits on Ebay.

I've decided to order a replacement WT588D-28P and a programmer (total cost from Ebay about $20). Looks like I get to roll my own solution.
#4888970
Hey people, I am experiencing the same issue with the fire button, I jush it and get the hum down sound and let go and it continuously fires until I vent or turn the music on. Also, the proton stream lights are not lighting properly unless I reverse the wiring from the schematic in the middle of this forum, so the yellow and blue. Also when I turn on the power brick the bar graph does something weird, the bottom 4 light up, then it animates to the top and back down again. I have checked my wiring and it is all hooked up correctly according to the schematic, did anybody find a solution?
#4888991
Problem solved, I simply switched the positive and ground wires on sound out wires on wand board. A few of the wires needed to be reversed also like the barrel blue and yellow lights. Works fine now, except the start-up sound seems to be interrupted by the hum sound just at the end, but I don't think there is a fix for that, I also wired the vent switch without the hum.
#4889006
idfraser wrote:Problem solved, I simply switched the positive and ground wires on sound out wires on wand board. A few of the wires needed to be reversed also like the barrel blue and yellow lights. Works fine now, except the start-up sound seems to be interrupted by the hum sound just at the end, but I don't think there is a fix for that, I also wired the vent switch without the hum.
What do you have left that doesn't work right? Got a schematic of how you have it wired now?
#4889013
I'm pretty sure everything is working correctly now, is the bargraph supposed to light up and do a weird sequence when you turn your 12V power source on to the board?
#4889014
idfraser wrote:I'm pretty sure everything is working correctly now, is the bargraph supposed to light up and do a weird sequence when you turn your 12V power source on to the board?
Mine does the same thing. I think others in this thread may have been able to fix it.
#4889791
I just got this kit and more or less everything is working, however when the battery is connected, the pack lights are on 100% of the time. Everything else is controlled by the main switch. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix that?
#4891048
ShiftyHenry wrote:I just got this kit and more or less everything is working, however when the battery is connected, the pack lights are on 100% of the time. Everything else is controlled by the main switch. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix that?
Your best bet is to message Crix directly, let us know if you get a fix for it as I am having issues also.
#4891135
Xaq wrote:That's too bad. He still seems to be selling kits on Ebay.

I've decided to order a replacement WT588D-28P and a programmer (total cost from Ebay about $20). Looks like I get to roll my own solution.
Just a quick update, I was successful in programming a WT588D-28P from and repairing my kit. There is software and basic instructions here:

https://www.gbfans.com/shop/pack-parts/ ... ip-module/

For the Heavy Props kits with an amplifier, you need to configure the project this way:

Options Menu
Control Mode: Key
Sound Output: DAC
Busy Mode: LOW
Pull Up Resistor: Enabeled

Here are the sounds I loaded for the relevant equations (they may differ a bit from the stock config):
00H - PK063 pack_overheat vent slow.wav
01H - Unused
02H - PK088 SGBP_11_Stream_loop_1p699_11P935.wav
03H - PK089 SGBP_12_Stream_wind_down
04H - Unused
05H - PK060 protonpack_dry_vent.wav
06H - PK086 SGBP_7_PowerDown.wav
07H - PK080 SGBP_1_PowerUp_connect_0_3P546.wav
08H - Unused
09H - PK070 ghostbusters.wav

I can email a completed project if anyone wants it, just PM me.

A few notes about programming this thing without toasting it (I went through 5 boards before I finally figured it all out). Follow these steps when programming:

1) Disconnect the programmer for all power
2) Insert the sound chip into the programmer with the notch toward the tension arm, and secure it with the tension arm
3) Plug the programmer into USB
4) In the WT588D software, click connect
5) Erase and program
6) When complete, click cut in the WT588D software
7) Disconnect USB to the programmer
8) Remove the chip from the programmer

Anything except for those exact steps seemed to damage the chip and I could no longer erase or program them.

I also essentially used this wiring diagram for the sound board:
Image

I have one oddity remaining on my board, which is that if I wire up the ground wire to the power cell board (second connection from the top in the above diagram), then my sounds go goofy and the wand stays lit all the time. It seems to work alright if I left it disconnected, but the power cell LED's aren't as bright.

I'm still horribly disappointed with the last of support from Crix (heavy Props ) and would not recommend that anyone use this kit.
#4893017
idfraser wrote:
ShiftyHenry wrote:I just got this kit and more or less everything is working, however when the battery is connected, the pack lights are on 100% of the time. Everything else is controlled by the main switch. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix that?
Your best bet is to message Crix directly, let us know if you get a fix for it as I am having issues also.
Update. Months later and multiple emails, never did get a response form Crix. I'd be wary.
#4902382
Hey,

I bought a complete heavy props light and sound kit for my proton pack and Neutrona wand from eBay.

I know that it is recommended to use the separate 3V battery holder for the sound board, but would it be possible to use a buck converter to convert from the 12V battery source to drop the voltage down to 3V to run to the sound board? If so any recommendations on how to wire it the harness up to do this?
#4902692
dheck wrote:I have a question. I have everything hooked up and it works perfectly except for a few problems.

When I hold the black switch the blue/orange leds flash like they should but it plays the power down noise. Not the proton stream noise. Any idea what would cause this?

Also I do not have the sound switch hooked up because it is a 3 conductor wire and your tutorial says it should only be 2. Its shows it connected to the sound board with a black an red wire. Where does the third wire go?

Also I have some one of the LEDs plugged into the blinking port on the gun board but all of them just stay on constantly.
Hey Man, im having the same problem with my kit, the blue and yellow LED's only blink when i hold the black button down but im getting the power down sound. when i let off the black button, the firing sound goes off but no blinking lights. also the one blinking red LED for the wand doesnt come on or blink at all. Did you ever fix that problem?
#4905410
i bought my kit and it arrived a few days ago, i am waiting on my battery pack which will come soon...that being said, i asked kris what amplifier and 3v power source i may need and he has been silent which is apparently not uncommon...anyone know which amplifier will work AND what 3 volt power source would be the best to use?

Also seeing how many people have had problems with this kit...is there any wiring guide that's 100% correct or is this just "here ya go, thanks for buying, figure it out bye"??
#4905537
Ok so I wanted to update, I bought his v1.7/2014 pack kit and I had problems same as you guys....BUT I had to buy a new 2.1mm x 5.5mm female power connector and completely disassembled the kit and started from scratch....i slowly went through the components one by one and it's working like a f****g champion! I need an amplifier and need to figure out how to hook it up. It crix has been communicating with me through eBay messages and has been a help. Don't discount his stuff, it does work!!!!
#4906059
http://jaystemp.imgur.com
i know it may not be much, but i'll say it again, i really just wired it up exactly as the diagram that was sent, follow the directions EXACTLY and all will be right, now unless you fried your boards or LEDs by accident then i can't help with that.
heres some specifics and/or changes i made that are in the photos.
1. i removed misc sound switch and may wire it up as a killswitch once i figure out how.
2. i set it up as NO hum, but will change it once my pack arrives.
3. i swapped around the smaller red and white LEDs on the thrower board because i was testing something and didn't change them back around yet, so that will show differently from the diagrams and in my actual wiring photo.
#4910505
Hey, new guy here! I'm currently building my first pack and decided on this kit as it was rather cheap and seemed pretty alright to setup. Don't know if I got lucky or if the diagrams have gotten better with time, but I wired it up exactly as specified and it worked flawlessly on the first go. It's too bad the hum sound interrupts the startup sound when turning it on, but that's really not a huge issue.

What I really didn't like though, was how the kit forced me to choose between all lights and sounds, or no lights at all, as all the lights are controlled by the main switch on the gun. I've found a pretty neat workaround for it though, using a two-prong power switch on one of the wires connecting the wand board to the pack board, so now I can have a separate switch for the pack lights while the "activate" switch only powers up the wand with lights and sounds. I'd be happy to share it if anyone's interested and/or brave enough to try it out ;)
#4910530
So this is how I did it. Looking at it now it does seem strange that it connects that way, I'm thinking I might've switched the red and black wires on the wand board but can't confirm it because it's sealed up a bit too nice and tight for me to want to pry it open :P Nevertheless it does seem to work, but I'd love for someone else to confirm it as a legit workaround, so I won't have to feel guilty about people frying their boards or anything...

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