By gEkX
#415929
A while ago AJ had a sale on the Lights for the Slime blower.

So I picked up a couple and slowly starting piecing things together for a build.

I still have a couple things needed but I'm pretty confident on how I want this to look.

A special thanks goes to FunkPunkTwang for all the inspiration and help thus far.

Thanks man!

Now, On to the picture show.

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-MMM Boxes and Mounting Plates & Tank Greebles
-Hobby Lobby Plastics
-Home Depot Concrete Tube and Acrylic Globes
-Gun Fittings from Jack ( I think I went with the ones everyone else was getting)
-NES Advantage Controller
-LC-1 Shoulder Straps, LC-2 Kidney
--On a side note the Buckle is incorrect for the LC-2 I have...
...Its supposed to be the more modern one so that kidney will be used on a future pack.
-The King Sword Lights that started it all.


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-Large BUD Project Box
-MMM BUD Box Tank Greebles
-AME Grips
-Some of the lenses I've found.


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-Small BUD Project Box
-More lenses

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Those drill points changed several times after this picture.

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Cut to size for the Bud Box

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Minimal clean up, some glue, and they are ready for electronics.
I ended up repainting the green pieces as well.

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Not perfect but I kinda like it..

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Some cheap alternative hose I found.. $20 shipped for 10 ft of the stuff.

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Parker Fittings.

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More fittings.. I have the Elbow for the Red Ball on order.


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I decided on layers of Foam and Fiberglass resin to get the PVC to the same thickness of the Hemispheres.

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First Layer..

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Not thick enough..

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So Another..

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Honestly, I should have done one more layer on the 5" tank.

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Prepping to attach the ends.

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This was after adding a bit of resin and rolling it around in there.

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You can see what I mean about he extra layer needed here.

See that Lip around the whole thing.. I feel the extra would have helped with that.

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Two ends attached and starting to get a feel for it.

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I use this from here on out for the fiberglass resin.

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First Layer, I used fiberglass window screen for this one.

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More resin and a layer of Fiber Cloth

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Sanding, Resin, Repeat.

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Some problem areas :(

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Rondo is your friend.

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So is the orbital sander.

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More resin and another layer of cloth later and we are onto Bondo..

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and more Bondo..

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AND more bondo... again, the orbital sander is your friend.

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Knocked this one over :walterpeck:

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So, we fix it!

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Not sure about the color of these..


I'm going to continue painting tonight and hopefully get some tanks mounted tomorrow.
Catch you on the flip side! :cool:
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User avatar
By XxEctOxX
#415946
FunkPunkTwang wrote:I love everything about this thread

what he said
ProtonCharger liked this
By gEkX
#415993
Thanks guys!

Gold had crossed my mind.

I picked up Krylon Brushed Metallic Satin Champagne Nouveau...
wow, that's a long name for paint..

Anyways, the Champagne Super Nova looks lighter in person.

I'm going to pick up some gold and have fun mixing the two until I get it right.
User avatar
By Skully
#416152
Yes Kenny, That looks awesome ...you mind posting the link to the hose you found, and also what brand/color Green ...
By gEkX
#416224
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Thanks!

Funny story about the green paint I chose.

Every time I was in Walmart's paint section I would always see this can..
..and every time I would pick it up and say "Hey, check it out.. Slime Tank Green".

Turns out.. It was! :D

I digress, The green I'm using is Rust-oleum Gloss Fern

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I believe Walmart's have different paint selections though... So you may need to look around.

Here is where I picked the hose up:

http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air-co ... se-406.php
ProtonCharger liked this
By gEkX
#417354
Using rivets to attach the green tanks has proven easy and effective.

It's not pretty but everything is pretty secure so far.

For the main tank I'm still undecided on how to mount it.. rivets should work; but I know there are other methods.

On with the show.

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I cut the cross member and 4" plate by hand with a jig saw.. again not pretty but it does the trick.

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Trying to keep the spacing and mounting positions as accurate as possible.

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This really just shows the gap needed to attach the vertical middle bar to the cross member.

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The tank should sit a little more to the right... I kinda messed that up :blush:

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Took that rivet mounting method for the vertical bar from Goffcorp. Thanks! :)

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Here you can see where I popped that spinner plastic piece off the frame, on the hole for the straps. I'm pretty sure that's accurate.

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You've already seen this one but the main tank and some other things mocked up.

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Burgundy the color is not.

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Debating on repainting...

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Repainted and aged.

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Took this to show the color scheme so far.

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Where she stands at the moment..

My biggest question right now is what to do about heat sinks.

Any pointers or help on those and mounting methods for the main tank would be awesome.

Comments and questions are welcome.
ProtonCharger liked this
User avatar
By Kingpin
#417665
Have you got a picture of the heatsinks? You could consider drilling into the base of them and attaching them with a selection of short bolts.
User avatar
By Kingpin
#417893
I suppose the more limited interest in them's what's held back a metal run being produced... I would've gone with Colin's, but the chance of the fins getting snapped off stopped me.
User avatar
By Kingpin
#417985
Indeed, however the production run for 20 sets of Blower Gun boxes would be substantially less than setting up a run for metal heatsinks.
By gEkX
#418009
I understand.

On a side note, I forgot to mention I threw some clear gloss acrylic on top of the primer for the brown/red ball.

To age it I used my fingernails and a dried up fiber resin chip brush.

Then some 000 steel wool to finish the "old" glossy paint look.
By gEkX
#423389
Small update for everyone.

Repainted my pump boxes.

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I can't wait to get them mounted and see what it looks like.

Here's the paint I used with a lacquer top coat.

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Picked up some 3" caution tape and I'm pretty happy with it.

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Also, I started working on the Psychomagnotheric Plasm Discharge Port, or PPDP, or Gun.

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As you can see, I had to cut my continuous hinge down to size. That piece then became a handy spacing tool for drill points.

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I used 6-32 button heads to secure the rolled aluminum sheet and hinge.

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"Test fitting" some things and a shot of the other side of the PPDP.

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By gEkX
#423448
Carpeteria wrote:This thing is really amazing. You're bringing some serious competition to Jonny's pack.
Thanks!

Technically Jon's came first and he's been helping me quite a bit...
Think of it more, me trying to live up to his teachings.

To be completely honest, when I saw his I said "F@$k yeah! Now that's a Slime Blower" and then started sweet talking him for help :D
By gEkX
#430571
While searching though digikey's online catalog I came across something that sparked a brain wave:

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http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... -ND/409412

1.97" width heat shrink fabric tube; that has a 2:1 shrink ratio and is designed for abrasion protection.

A couple Google searches revealed it shrinks at "low" temperature making it suitable for rubber and plastic hose.

I searched around a little for prices and eBay was the best at $35.50 shipped for 10'.


You may be able to get it cheaper elsewhere but most places I found sold it either in 100' rolls, like digikey, or it was over $5 a foot.


Anyways, enough talk..

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.. My flash kinda washes out the black. If I can get some better lighting I'll take a couple more pics.

It was very easy to apply.

I stretched the hose out and measured off three feet twice then used the remainder for the third hose.

Again, stretching the hose, I eyeballed the length of the fabric; leaving about 1/2" extra on each side.

Snip, snip and did the same for the second hose.

The third or longer or "Side" hose was a little long for the last of the fabric so, I cut it down to size.

Pulled the hose through.

Used my knee to hold the hose at the halfway point, stretched the hose, and then took a heat gun to it.

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(You can't really tell but I kinda scorched the rug I was working on. :blush:)

CAREFULLY started by my hand and then worked my way up to my knee.

Then braced it, stretch, and do the rest of the hose going the same direction.

Went over it a couple more times (un-stretched) and done.


So, the 10' of hose ran me $20 and the fabric was $35.50 for a grand total of $55.50.. a little expensive but from what I understand cheaper than other options.

I'm really happy with how it turned out and can rest assured my hoses won't tear easily.


Here are a couple more pics of the heat sinks I scored.

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The person I got them from asked to remain anonymous at the moment.. either way.. Thank you again.

You are a gentleman and a scholar.

Things to come..

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Wish me luck :)

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