Have a guide or tutorial? Post it up!
#385997
nolatron wrote:
Tom Koza wrote:I could use a hand with the same problem. I have the Crix sound board ( the square one with screw terminals) and cant get two sounds on one DPDT. I'm going for startup with hum when toggled on and shutdown when toggled off. So far no luck even with reasonable electronics experience.
It's not too hard. With a DPDT, just think of 1 row of 3 terminals as 1 switch (lights), and the other row as a 2nd switch (sounds).

So let's say, we'll make the left set for your sounds. You're gonna run 3 wires from the sound board to the switch. The middle terminal is gonna be connected to any ground terminal on the sound board. Then the upper and lower terminal are run to the startup and shutdown terminals on the soundboard.

Now, the "active" terminal is the one opposite the way the switch is thrown. So if you flip the toggle up, the middle and bottom terminals are connected. Flip it down and the middle and upper terminals are connected.

So if for you flipping the toggle up turns on your pack lights, wire the bottom terminal to the startup sound and the upper terminal to shutdown.
I'm going to make a small correction to what was said here... For controlling two sounds you can't just go to any ground on the kit. At least the experience I have had with crix's kit you either need to run one wire from the middle terminal of the switch to the battery ground or two wires from the middle terminal on the switch to each ground for each sound the switch is going to activate.

I personally just ran the one wire to the battery ground terminal made things easy.
#387036
Okay so heres my conundrum. The lights and sound work perfectly with the DPDT toggles, but I bought a DPDT push button for the thrower and cant get that to work. It only does one sound and not with pushing the button, the sound goes off once I connect the wire.
#387055
Tom Koza wrote:Okay so heres my conundrum. The lights and sound work perfectly with the DPDT toggles, but I bought a DPDT push button for the thrower and cant get that to work. It only does one sound and not with pushing the button, the sound goes off once I connect the wire.
I had the same problem. Double check which wire is the ground on the push button. Most likely it's one of the end prongs instead of the middle one like on the toggles. If you have a multimeter try buzzing out your terminals to see which ones are connected when the switch is up and then when pushed in. If not just try moving your ground wire to one of the ends and put the sounds on the others till they match up to what you want.
#387472
Tom Koza wrote:Still cant get it to work, might just do things the simple way instead
Do you only have one ground wire for 2 sounds? Where is your ground wire going?
#387506
yes just one ground going to the sound board. I hook up the ground (black) to the end contact and the red to the middle contact and those two to the thrower power down sound screw terminals and it triggers the sound when i connect the wires, but when i switch the red wire to the other end contact and press the button nothing happens.
This is the switch I bought
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-st ... TCH/1.html
#387997
chriscmb wrote:If I'm correct, I think ground is in the middle if the button. the other ends are positive.
That can vary with the switch. I'm using this one and the ground is one of the end terminals, not sure looking at the picture. I think the middle one is connected when it's pushed and the other end is connected when you let it go. Toggles typically have the ground in the middle though.
#388019
Tom Koza wrote:yes just one ground going to the sound board. I hook up the ground (black) to the end contact and the red to the middle contact and those two to the thrower power down sound screw terminals and it triggers the sound when i connect the wires, but when i switch the red wire to the other end contact and press the button nothing happens.
This is the switch I bought
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-st ... TCH/1.html
This is happending because you have only grounded one sound to the board not both sounds. You need to run the ground wire for this switch to the main ground of the sound board where the battery gets connected. Or you need to run two ground wires from the switch and then to each terminal for each sound.

Either way is up to you.
#389131
OK thanks everyone for your help, ive got my sounds all working and the wand is now ready for final assembly. My new question is, my sounds are all crackle-y and static-y. I dont have it all soldered on just temporary connections but im worried the amp or speaker could be bad, and has anyone ever tried using a stereo amp instead of a mono?
#393896
Again I have run into problems, everything was fine until (dickless here) I mounted my speaker, amp, and sound chip and connected everything. I labeled all my wires so they went back in the same terminals on the sound board but now none work correctly. That is only one sound on a DPDT switch will go off. I dont get it, if they all worked fine before I lengthened the wires and mounted everything then it should theoretically work, right? Also for some reason the 9v on my pack lights (Jupiter Electronics) is getting really hot even when the lights are off. (I put switch on them)
Help please, I'm so close.
#393900
I'm not sure about the buttons and switches not working. make sure you have a 12v battery like the ones they are talking about in this forum. make sure this only 2-3 AAA or AA batteries to the sound chip or it will fry it, I've had that happen to me because I didn't pay attention. I usually try out the switches and buttons with short cables to try them out so I know they are working before I start wiring the crap out of it. now for the battery, I had that happen to me before and no one gave me a clear answer to that one until I figured it out myself. if you are new to electronics, you know what especially with an LED there is a negative and positive and you put the battery to the correct one. now with a switch, you gotta make sure that it's going to be either negative or positive. for example, you will have to take the positive cable or terminal and wire it to one of the terminals on the switch, then the other terminal on the switch wire it to the positive cable or terminal on the other end. basically the switch will be between the device and the battery in order to cut the flow of electricity to the device. now if you have it where it's soldered to negative to one terminal then positive to another, it brings the flow of electricity back to the battery and then makes it heat up like crazy and it may even leak or blow up. I hope that helped you or anyone else.
#393919
Oh ok that makes sense with the battery so I'll change that. The sound chip is powered by two AAs. I did test all the sounds beforehand so I knew all was set up correctly and working, only after adding the longer lengths of wire did things stop working properly. I can only get one sound per switch instead of the two I previously had.
#394071
Just for clarity l, what i should say is after putting together the wand/gun/thrower and wiring DPDTswitches to have two sounds i tested everything to make sure all was set up how i wanted it. When i was satisfied i mounted my speaker, amp, and sound chip to my motherboard, numbered each wire then added longer wires and numbered the other ends so they went in the right terminals. I put some plastic Plexiglass between the amp,chip and the motherboard so there wouldnt be any shorting too.
#400354
I'd be willing to bet my answer lies within this thread, but my searches haven't turned up the results I want.

I have a Replica Props Ecto siren sound chip that works fine... but I can't seem to get the wiring for the main siren wired to a switch properly.

I'm using a SPDT switch for the main siren and have a momentary pushbutton SPST for the yelp. The yelp works perfectly, but no matter how I position the wires on the three prongs on the SPDT the best result I can manage is to have the siren wind up and loop, but nothing happens if I switch it off; it doesn't wind down and stop. It will in fact loop until I press the yelp button, which then cuts off the siren entirely.

What I'd really like to get ahold of is a wiring diagram specific to the Ecto sounds. I've seen the diagrams for the pack but haven't seen one for the Ecto siren. Any help?
#400356
RichLather wrote:What I'd really like to get ahold of is a wiring diagram specific to the Ecto sounds. I've seen the diagrams for the pack but haven't seen one for the Ecto siren. Any help?
I can't see images at work but I think there's some helpful stuff in this thread: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... 13&t=14712
#400443
I'm using a SPDT switch for the main siren and have a momentary pushbutton SPST for the yelp. The yelp works perfectly, but no matter how I position the wires on the three prongs on the SPDT the best result I can manage is to have the siren wind up and loop, but nothing happens if I switch it off; it doesn't wind down and stop. It will in fact loop until I press the yelp button, which then cuts off the siren entirely.

Rich,
What you probably would need is a DPDT switch to have the yelp on one pole and the wind down on the other with one ground in the middle. This is of course an assumption since I assume the two sounds are seperate on the sound chip. This is how all my sounds are wired on my pack so its all the same concept. But from this description it sounds like your going for three sounds on one switch, in which case you may need a triple pole triple throw if those are even available or use a DPDT and a SPST somehow. Keep in mind, each time you activate one sound it will shut off the other. Might have to go with two seperate sound chips.
#400472
The way the sound chip was wired when I bought it (used) was with an SPDT switch for the siren and a momentary pushbutton SPST for the yelp, and it worked fine then. In the "off" position it does nothing. Flip it to on, and you get the "wind-up" sound followed by a loop of the siren. Switch it to off, and the siren winds down and stops.

The yelp is on a completely different circuit; always has been.

Since that time I have purchased different switches for my in-car control box and I've never been able to wire it up the same way, which is why I'm asking for a wiring diagram. It'd be much easier for me to trace the wires if I knew which one performed which function for the main siren.
#406236
Can someone give me a literally, totally, 5-year old's level break down on how to build this sound kit stuff? I am beyond lost. lol
I'm sitting here with all the parts. And that's as far as I got. I have the Replica-props sound chip, two 4" 8ohm speakers, a 7watt amp, and a solderless breadboard. Also, a 3xAAA battery pack. I'm sitting here...lost. I have no clue where to even begin. Where do you even stick the sound board in relation to the solderless breadboard? Which pins should be in which holes? Then after that...where the heck do I run the wires to on this thing? After that, I know that wires run to the switches and buttons. That's the easy part. And I think I understand the AMP....I pretty much have everything from Replicaprops parts list for the how-to guide. I also ordered a Crix sound kit, hoping it would make this process a little easier....Can anyone help me dumb this down? I'm really awful at this. Clearly. lol
#406265
ok, do you have a pack ready to go? I will assume you do and you have your wire set

1. Put the Sound chip in the breadboard, make sure that the chip is CENTERED! Look below, see the seam in the middle, make sure the middle of the chip is lined up with this seam!. THIS IS IMPORTANT! It doesnt matter where you put the chip on the board. You just need to count the pins on the chip to know which one your using. ONLY USE YOUR AAA battery pack, you will fry your chip if you use the 12v battery.

Image

2. You see on either side there is a seam, then there are two rows of holes with a + - over each?
That is a battery strip, if you plug your battery into any of those holes it will proved power to all of the holes in the line up and down. So plug your red wire from your battery pack into the + and the black into the - (either side is ok)

3. You will need to make jumpers. All these are little pieces of wire that connect things on your bread board. ok now, look below!

Image

4. You are going to wire pin 22 and 20 ( Right side, 7th and 9th pin form the top to the the positive line of holes. This provides power to the chip. Next wire pin 14 (the bottom most pin on the left) to the negative line of holes. This will complete the circuit.

5. Now. lets wire the wires coming in from your switches. The 3 wires from the toggle switch are first. The wire from the middle pin of the switch, goes in the negative line of holes. The other two (you will want to test this) go into pins 19 and 18. Test these so the power up and power down switches coincide with the lights turning on and off.

6. Now lets wire the firing wires. Again, the wire coming from the center pin on switch is your negative. so put it next to your wire from your toggle switch on the bread board. The other two wires go in pins 17 and 16. Again you need to test these so that the firing sound is activated when you press the switch and the power down sound is when you let go.

Image

7. Now lets wire your amp in. Pins 9 and 10 are our sound out. + and - negative respectively. Connect the wire from pin 9 will go to the WIN pin on your AMP. The wire from pin 10 to the negative pin on your amp.

8. Wire your Amp to the Speaker the positive from the amp goes the the positive on your speaker. The negative goes to the negative.

9. Then all that is left is your battery. Again. Positive goes with positive and negative goes to negative.
Make sure you wire a switch between your battery and your amp. other wise your amp will drain your battery.

Goodluck and pm me if you need any more help!
Last edited by belldandy4087 on August 9th, 2012, 8:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.
#406273
This is extremely helpful to get me started. I really do appreciate that. Yes, I do have a pack 100% ready to go, just need to stick in some sound. I have a Jupiter Light kit, with the DPDT switches already in place, I'll just run some wires from those down through the hose, probably over the weekend. So, sadly enough, as well written as this is...I want to reconfirm some things before I start sticking wires in spots, opening a worm hole, and altering the time space continuum....or blow my chip. Beyond idiots guide or dummy's guide breakdown is basically this....
Take the chip. Stick it centered in the middle of the breadboard. Run jumpers from those numbered pins that go to something, to the positive/negative holes on the far ends of the chip. Then wire the speakers to the spot they are designated. Same with amp. And run the power to the outside holes as well, per the diagram? Battery goes to 22 and 20 for positive, and Negative goes in pin 14's area?

I'd expect a PM sometime in the future if I still don't grasp this simple task of wiring up a sound kit. lol
#406276
Sorry for not clarifying. The positive wires from the switches go in the holes on the bread board in line horizontally with the pin you want to use. So if you want to wire your power up. It will go on the right side of the bread board. In the same horizontal line of holes as pin 19 is in. And so on so forth. Only the negative wires from the switches will go to the the Battery column. Does that make sense. Oh, and you will do the same thing for the speakers

I can post some more pictures later if you still need some help
Jw
Last edited by belldandy4087 on August 10th, 2012, 12:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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