Went back to the drawing board with the dome and motor base. New models.


Resized some things to better fit the Kit Kraft 89mm plastic dome I'm using. Also, it's not visible in the pictures, but the motor mount will insert into the existing cylinder housing (glue it down) and then retain the dome itself. Really hoping I won't have to design new cross braces - we'll see. So far - looks like a no.
Redesigned the motor plate to split the motor tower from the plate, for easy printing. Works nicely, force fits together perfectly.


Currently building the physical parts of the ear sweep mechanism to test fit before moving on to printing final parts to do some actual assembly.

I've specced out a full electrical BOM, state map, operational theory, etc. Hoping to get to the electronics next week (ordering).

For activation, I'm going to use a levered microswitch ala the Cyland & 1 of the screen props, under the handle. I will model up a centering adapter you can glue into the handle and screw the switch into so the underside hole is totally filled. Power on will be via a single ganged switch pot on the left side, and that same pot will be used to select between Dome & Ears or Just Ears activation modes.

I'm a little worried about space for batteries - I've got everything currently specced out for 3S Li* (LiPo, LiOn, LiFePO4, etc) operation (~11-12v). Thinking either 3x 18650's or a ~2000mah 3S LiPo.
Yup. Just updated the Thingiverse page for it. There is now a print guide, as some things are fiddly and require sizing changes before printing.

At this point, I've only got the levered microswitch holder left to model, and Omron left some details out of the datasheet. Once I've got the real switch, I'll finish the model, and that'll be it! Everything else has been printed and fits properly. Once I've got a few more pieces of hardware (got some wrong screws), I'll start taking pictures of how this all goes together.

Also, I sourced heat-set inserts for the places in the shell that need them, based solely on measurements I took from your models. McMaster 94180A323, for M2.5 screws. Only ran into one issue - on the main shell, you exposed the threaded insert hole to the INSIDE of the shell, rather than the outside - guessing you did this because the model was originally designed to be in halves. I had to get creative in drilling in order to get the insert to set through the backside of the shell - not horrible, but not a walk in the park, either. Looking back, I may have been able to install it in reverse anyways. Oh well! At the very least, the model is VERY STRONG with these threaded inserts in place.

Hoping to get a BOM together once I've better figured out what it takes, since I'm not even sure how I'm gonna get batteries into this thing yet.
Tyrael liked this
The switch I specced out for the handles won't fit in the original models without a bunch of hacking about. I figure, why bother, I've got a printer, what's another 6 hours of printing! :(


This is the right handle. The left does not have the screw bosses.

Getting closer. Keeping me busy while I wait for electronics to arrive.
Tyrael liked this
Here's today's update.

I'm currently painting and assembling the Gigameter.


To complete the dome, I cut the 3/16 acrylic rod with regular clippers, used a small torch to "mushroom" one end to a button head, and clear. Forgot where I learned to do this, but this makes mounting the rods easier, as the button head prevents the rod from falling through. I then spin-ground the other end against a file to make a rounded profile for easy insertion into the dome. A little super glue tacked everything into place.

I also realized that the fit on the clear dome is super, super finicky. When you print the Gigameter, print the motor base/dome base FIRST, and size up to account for any shrinkage (PLA can be 4-7%) I didn't, and had to heat the base some to get a little extra expansion for mounting the dome.

The core of the electronics is an Arduino Nano. I completed the electronics test today, and the code is 100% working.

Useful Arduino Nano Pinout Sheet

Here's the Full Arduino Code as of Today

Above video is just the display function while you hit the scan switch. I haven't taken videos of the rest, but it's working. The display, fun thing that it is, only has 5 wires running to it. +5v, +3.3v, ground, Serial Data, and Serial Clock. Way easier than all the other shit a regular 7-segment display requires.

I've updated the models @ Thingiverse to include the new handle models (left and right) as well as the new printing guide.

I still anticipate one more new model, and that's a battery cover that includes a speaker grille and bosses for mounting the speaker I've decided to use - a CUI CMS0231KLX. 1" Square, 8w full-range speaker capable of ~82dB!

Only thing that I'm stuck on now is the sound file - can't seem to get a hold of David or anybody that might have a copy of that sound file. :(
Tyrael liked this
Did a ton of wiring today. Ugh. Need to reinforce things once they are tested post-assembly. Still need to do the right mic stalk led's, mount the Arduino, mount and wire the dome relay, blah blah blah. Ignore the glue abortion on the back of the dome - premature attachment. Some things are going to be touched up post-assembly.


The deadbug next to the servo is a 7805 and a 0.1uF bypass cap. The servo will swamp the arduino's +5v, it's got a stall rating of nearly three-quarters of an amp.
Tyrael liked this
More progress.

Things learned:
1 - 7805 for the servo requires capacitance on the output. 1800uF in this case.
2 - The Arduino +5v is overtaxed, moved the display +5v to the servo's regulator as it had more overhead.
3 - Arduino 3.3v is overtaxed by the display (~80mA). Moved to a 3-pin switching regulator deadbugged to the inside of the display cover.
4 - Wiring a Gigameter is a huge pain in the ass. HUGE.
5 - The relay I have in the Gigameter for Dome/LED activation should be replaced with a lower power SSR.

I blew up the 3.3v regulator for the display somehow, so while I wait for that to come in, I've continued working on the audio section.


Printed that, came out pretty good.

Also got a hold of the Gigameter sound file, finally. :)
Tyrael liked this
I've got it all put together and working. Currently spec'ing out a battery based on available size - looks like 20x30x100 is about the max size.

I've got a 1250mAh and a 460mAh pack currently on the way. The 460 will definitely fit, but I'm hoping the 1250 works better.

There are some 2200mAh packs out there that would fit if I had a few more millimeters of clearance at the tray. I may customize the battery tray and make it 5-10mm taller so I can fit 40mm wide packs in there and get some serious life.



For the gory tech details - I've installed a 1.5A 5v switching regulator module, and I'm getting 3.3v from an LM1117-3.3 linear regulator. This assembly, as seen in the battery tray, powers the display (all 3.3v) and the audio chip (all 3.3v). The 5v stepdown is just to save a boatload of heat on the linear regulator.

Also, the LM386 amp board hates the DAC out from the audio chip, it's too loud (voltage too high). I installed a pot (50k) across the the DAC line of the audio chip to dial it down, which makes things work nicely. Now it gets loud, and doesn't distort.


Basically that.

File Releases!:
Wiring Notes and Full BOM as I've written it down - Click Here.
Version 1.2 Arduino Sketch
All my parts for Tyrael's Gigameter!
Gigameter Models by Tyrael

I did forget to mention that you need to buy a dome, as well. Kit Kraft's 89mm dome is what you want.

Edit - Also put the WT588 Programmer project for the sound chip (boot sound and running sound) on Thingiverse.

Edit 2 - Youtube!
Tyrael, Cole Funstuff liked this
Hey everyone. After all this time, I FINALLY got the chance to sit down and actually work on revising these models a bit. Some of this will look a bit familiar from what folks like WindDrake and David An have done, but that's because they honestly had great ideas I wish I had implemented in the original models. Also a big shout-out to Thingiverse user TheLegendOfMart for putting up an accurate display model. I have revised the display to be more accurate, as well.

First off, I ditched the old "bunch of LEDs in the spinning dome" approach and simplified things by just having the dome attached to a central motor in the front cylinder, similar to what WindDrake did. The holes in the dome have been resized to accommodate 4mm diameter acrylic rods, which will transmit the light from the LEDs that will be stationary inside the front cylinder.

Second, I redesigned the front cylinder to hold said static LEDs. I also split the cylinder up and gave it inserts someone can choose between, whether or not they want a few gaps or not. I'm hoping the gapless will allow less light pollution where it doesn't belong in the model, but you never know who might need a bit of extra wiring room.

More accurate display, but this time I've split the model up a bit to allow for easier installation of the Realistic Microphone heads and less of a need for support material in printing the overall display. The bottom of the display has holes to fit 4-40 sized socket head cap screws (or M-whatever, I don't have metric sizes on hand) which were the more accurate choice over the previous nubs in the model. I've also added a sort of ledge for the Realistic Microphone heads, in case someone just wants to have them in place for display instead of movable. A Dremel can tool the thing out if someone wants to use WindDrake's modifications and gears.

I've also redone the handles to ditch the previous button and wheel potentiometer setup I originally wanted to use (not really worth a picture). If someone wants to use the microswitch approach that WindDrake used, he has his revised handles available on the Thingiverse as well.

I still need to print these out myself, but that will come very soon as I just recently had to do some fairly major maintenance on my printer and it's mostly squared away. After that, I'll be looking at tackling the electronics myself.
This thread is a perfect example of the community working together to create something everyone can utilize. Thank you again for making these public Tyrael!

I was wondering, did you use a scrubber as a basis for this model or some other item as a reference for scale? I'm wondering if it would help to utilize some of the "found" measurements from a real shell to see how it compares to the models you've put together.

(Sorry if I asked this already)
I've never even so much as seen an actual scrubber IRL, much less had a chance to take measurements, unfortunately. I mostly went off the width of my own hand compared to Egon's and used scaling and proportions from there.
It's entirely possible someone can take an actual scrubber and do measurements and a 3D model based on them, but unfortunately I just no longer have the time to do it from scratch again myself.
Cole Funstuff liked this

I used this wire for my setup. https://www.amazon.[…]

SOS Fantômes : L’Héritage as […]

Ok so not strictly Afterlife related, but does any[…]

Yeah, you're closer to the big bend group. I'm way[…]