[mburkit]

Greetings everyone! I know there is a post about Afterlife props in the Ghostbusters: Afterlife section. I wanted to start a thread to discuss the parts to the new pack. This discussion is raging on Facebook and I figured I'd bring it here. Please feel free to contribute.



Hopefully everyone has seen this image so far. There are a lot of new things on the new pack.

I personally have been collecting the unique parts that we know of for the past year. I don't have EVERYTHING yet, but I wanted to share and start the discussion.



Here are some part names and numbers to get us started.

Flexo PET - 1/2" - PTN0.50YB
Neutrik NAC3FX-W
Neutrik NAC3MPX
Herbert Cooper 35" Mask Scuba Rebreather HC36S M25A1 Oxygen Hose
Heinemann Electric 70-592A Circuit Breaker 1Amp 115v
Leviton 15 amp Single-Pole Toggle Light Switch
XHF 6mm Spiral Cable Wrap 1/4"
JMF 3/8" x 1/4" Compression Union
SMC 4mm Elbows
Nylon Strain Relief Fitting PG 7 & 1/4" NPT - CF07AA-BK
Cannon MS3102E16S-4S Connector
Dixie Cup Holder hooks
Metal heatsink (found on Ebay from seller prop-forge)

I plan on trying to take more close up reference for everyone with what I have. If anyone else has anything, please feel free to share.

[Lowberg]

I think it's a great idea to have a consolidated thread here, easy to find and reference.
I'm hoping a higher resolution image of the "GB App" proton pack gets released soon.

The only other things I have to add at the moment is I've heard that the cap from the beam line tube may be a fabricated/3d-printed part so I'm going to hold off digging deep into trying to ID a real world part for that until I hear otherwise.

The shotgun thrower grip may be as well. I spent a LOT of time trying to research "corn cob" style foregrips and asked around on some vintage firearm reddits with no luck finding the exact type.

I've heard that the "wires" around the clippard disc plate may not be "wire" but are copper plated welding rods / brazing rods. I can't confirm this but I'd be willing to try and source some and try and figure out the proper diameter. I'd imagine they would be tricky to bend into position though. They appear to be attached with some sort of small terminal lug

[mburkit]

Okay, time for some close ups of the parts.

Flexo PET - 1/2" - PTN0.50YB



Neutrik NAC3FX-W



Neutrik NAC3MPX
(Before modification)



(After modification)



Neutrik NAC3FX-W and Neutrik NAC3MPX connected




Herbert Cooper 35" Mask Scuba Rebreather HC36S M25A1 Oxygen Hose


Heinemann Electric 70-592A Circuit Breaker 1Amp 115v




Leviton 15 amp Single-Pole Toggle Light Switch
(All ready chopped up, painted with fiberglass rod attached to mimic the Heinemann Circuit Breaker)

[mburkit]

Next set of parts.

JMF 3/8" x 1/4" Compression Union
(You need 1 of these on the left of the EDA)


NOTE: The Legris straights on the pack were replaced with JMF 1/8" x 1/4" Compression Union. I don't have these on hand yet to share photos of.

SMC 4mm Elbows
(Painted Grey for the film)


6mm Hose Clamps


9mm Spring Clamp


Nylon Strain Relief Fitting PG 7 & 1/4" NPT - CF07AA-BK


Dixie Cup Holder hooks


Metal heatsink





Beamline Cap
(Rumor has it that this part was 3D printed for production. This is my take on it)

[mburkit]

This last section will be more of a discussion of alternative parts. You'll see why in a second. . .

Cannon MS3102E16S-4S Connector
(Connector with the Grey 2-pin Insert)


So, why did I mention alternatives? Well, from my understanding, they used the MS3102E16S-4S connector on the new proton packs. The accurate connector piece, which is attached to the split loom/breathing hose assembly, is SUPER rare. So rare, in fact, supposedly production had to cast the ones they had to have them on all the packs. I've only seen 1 photo of one in private hands (sadly, I cannot share that photo).

With all of that being said, there are less accurate alternatives out there; specifically more modern connectors. So I will share some photos of those, as I have been hunting and purchasing parts for over the last year, or so.

If you plan on using this type of fitting, let me explain the part numbers for you. The example part number I will use is: MS3106A16S-4P (this size connector will connect to the screen accurate socket)

"MS3106A" is the model type of connector
"16S" is the size of the connector
"4P" is the number and pattern of the electronic connector inside the fitting. "S" stands for socket and "P" stands for plug.

So if you you have part number MS3102E16S-4S as the socket, you will need MS3106A16S-4P to fit that plug. For most people, the most important part of your search will be the "16S-4P" part of the part number, as that will let you know if your parts will fit together.

With all of that said, let me show you some examples of alternatives I have found so far. This parts work, but do not look exactly the same as the screen used part.

Here is one version of the connector that fits with my socket with the plug insert with 7 pins.


Here's another.


They can be torn apart as well. The parts are all interchangeable, as long as they are the same size connector.


If I ever get more information about the accurate plug, I will post it here.
With that, happy hunting!

[Kingpin]

Cannon MS3102E16S-4S Connector

Looks like that might also be the large connector on the back of the RTV's battery:

[mburkit]

Looks like that might also be the large connector on the back of the RTV's battery:

Hey, looks like it! It's definitely the same style connector. Not sure if it's the same size

[Lowberg]

IF SOMEONE ASKS IF MBURKIT IS A GOD...YOU SAY YES.

Not much to else contribute at this point, but I'm looking at the new thrower loom construction.

The middle section appears to be 3/4 Outer Diameter fuel line hose / braided rubber hose. I got mine at a local hardware store for about $2.50/foot, got 2 feet to be safe




You probably only need about 12" of it, depending how long you want to run it into the loom and scuba hose sections.

Now on to the scuba rebreather hose....


On the released pack photo, I've counted 25 visible ribs. It could be 26 or 27 with the tape overlap.
So it will definitely have to be cut down to size.
It is unclear to me what end of the cut down hose has the rubber seal on it , I'm guessing it's the fuel line hose end of it but I am not sure.

Having said that, Here is what the scuba hose would look like at the length of 25 ribs (Marked off by the orange tape)


On the production photo, it also looks stretched out on the upper portion of the scuba hose. The scuba hose doesn't seem to be very stretchable to the point where it would remain stretched out when relaxed, but we'll see.

[Austin]

Now on to the scuba rebreather hose....


On the released pack photo, I've counted 25 visible ribs. It could be 26 or 27 with the tape overlap.
So it will definitely have to be cut down to size.
It is unclear to me what end of the cut down hose has the rubber seal on it , I'm guessing it's the fuel line hose end of it but I am not sure.

Having said that, Here is what the scuba hose would look like at the length of 25 ribs (Marked off by the orange tape)


On the production photo, it also looks stretched out on the upper portion of the scuba hose. The scuba hose doesn't seem to be very stretchable to the point where it would remain stretched out when relaxed, but we'll see.

The stretched out portion is just the fabric pulled away and up over the rubber hose. It's then held down to the hose with a clamp. Here's a photo of my pack from last year:


I have the wrong clamp. Just used what I had on hand and have still yet to swap it out, haha. But it's the same as what's on the clippard wires only larger, obviously.

[Austin]

I'll talk a moment about the Neutrik connector for the wand hose.

There are three variations of the connector. Only one is screen accurate(that we've seen so far).


This is the 100% accurate model. Note the presence of only one "hump" on the bottom in the back, and the yellow button with small ridges.


This is what I believe is an earlier version than the one above. Note the two humps on the bottom. This is not accurate.


And finally there is this, the most recent version. While the body is correct with only one hump, the button has changed to silver with larger ridges. Again, not accurate.

Now, if you're only going for close enough, any of these will be fine. But the screen accurate version definitely seems to be the hardest one to get(because of course!). And beware of stock photos showing the correct model. If they don't have a photo of the actual product you're to receive, better message them to double check. I know Matt and I have both been burned several times by stock photos

[Lowberg]

The stretched out portion is just the fabric pulled away and up over the rubber hose. It's then held down to the hose with a clamp. Here's a photo of my pack from last year:
I have the wrong clamp. Just used what I had on hand and have still yet to swap it out, haha. But it's the same as what's on the clippard wires only larger, obviously.

Okay cool thanks for the tip! That makes sense, I still have to pick up some spring clamps so I'll make sure to get some larger ones too. Did you hit your scuba hose with some spray paint? It looks closer in color to the production photo, the ones we have are almost like a forest green.

[Austin]

The stretched out portion is just the fabric pulled away and up over the rubber hose. It's then held down to the hose with a clamp. Here's a photo of my pack from last year:
I have the wrong clamp. Just used what I had on hand and have still yet to swap it out, haha. But it's the same as what's on the clippard wires only larger, obviously.

Okay cool thanks for the tip! That makes sense, I still have to pick up some spring clamps so I'll make sure to get some larger ones too. Did you hit your scuba hose with some spray paint? It looks closer in color to the production photo, the ones we have are almost like a forest green.

Very lightly with some flat black, but the majority of it is all real weathering. I ordered one of the new ones off ebay, and then just happened to be digging around in my garage a couple of days later and found a box of oooooold school GB pack parts, and I had one of those hoses in there. Nice and crusty! So I used that and have kept the new one for a future build, hahaha

[prodestrian]

I'm hoping a higher resolution image of the "GB App" proton pack gets released soon.

I posted this in another thread, but here's the full-resolution image from the Android app (I decompiled the APK to get this, only to discover that it's actually a video with no background).

It's possible there's a better image buried in the app somewhere but I couldn't get any of the Unity app decompilers to work on Linux, so I can't tell what the remaining assets are yet. Or maybe the iOS app has higher resolution assets.

Would be curious to know what's going on here:

[Lowberg]

I saw that! Thank you!

If you are referring to the clamps on the red tubing, see MBurkit's post above where he mocks up what that might look like with 2 small hose clamps.

If you are talking about the piece on the side of the cyclotron, they are a semi-unidentified heat sinks. I say semi-unidentified because apparently they were found at the same surplus place in LA that the film prop team farmed them from and someone bought all of the remaining ones The good news is some of those were re-sold (unfortunately I didn't get one) and measurements have been taken, so I'm sure there will be replicas made in the future.

Apparently there's some sort of small 6 prong circuit board chip attached on it. as well as some of the same copper wires we see around the clippard valve.

[Demon Vice Commander]

Apparently there's some sort of small 6 prong circuit board chip attached on it. as well as some of the same copper wires we see around the clippard valve.

The chip on the heatsink appears to be a standard DIP6 IC.

[halliwax]

Excuse my ignorance, but where does the circuit breaker, red light switch and heat sink go?

I can’t find them in the photo and just really curious

It amazes me some of you guys have gotten this far with the reference we have BEFORE this latest profile photo

Truly incredible

[Krenzy]

The red switch mounts inside the bottom of the ion arm, the heat sink is on the right side of the SyncGen, below the yellow label, and the breaker switch mounts under the gearbox.

[mburkit]

Excuse my ignorance, but where does the circuit breaker, red light switch and heat sink go?

I can’t find them in the photo and just really curious

It amazes me some of you guys have gotten this far with the reference we have BEFORE this latest profile photo

Truly incredible

As stated above, the red switch is on the underside of the Ion arm and the circuit breaker is on the crank gen, just north of the yellow label.

In regards to finding these parts so far, there have been some people that have had some behind the scenes access. That has given us all a leg up on finding parts. While I can say with 99% certainty that the parts I have put together here are most likely accurate; some of the parts have not had clear public reference yet (such as the circuit breaker or the switch on the ion arm). So please take what is said here with a grain of salt. You're allowed to be skeptical.

The best I can do for you are these 2 images.

Ion arm switch:


Crank Gen Breaker Switch:


And placement on the pack (including the heat sink)


In these photos, you can at least see that they are there, but you can't ID what they are from these photos. Hopefully, once the film comes out, we will be able to get better reference of the props.

[Austin]

What Matt said! Also keep in mind that with the modified gunner seat pack, the placement of the crank gen switch seems to be a bit different. Here's the placement on my pack:

It basically sits all the way back against the piece of cosmetic plating around the top of the sync gen "arm", and is centered on the crank gen.

My switch isn't accurate here, however. It was a scratch build before I had the accurate breaker switch, and was based off the ion arm switch. I have yet to swap mine out. This is what the two switches look like with their mounting plates:

As you can see, the crank gen breaker is quite a bit bigger. The ion arm switch also has six mounting screws in the same layout as the rivets on the breaker switch. They're small flat head socket screws if I recall correctly.

And finally, here's the heatsink with the wires and chip Demon Vice Commander was talking about:

(I'll take this off my pack and get a couple of better photos later)

[Far451]

Cannon MS3102E16S-4S Connector

Looks like that might also be the large connector on the back of the RTV's battery:

I think you are right, I tried to measure and I get that the threaded part is 23mm (0.9") It can't be that accurate trying to measure a screen shot.
It turns out that that would be either 1" (size 16) or 7/8" size 14. But not size 18 (that I ordered yesterday )
I would bet (not the farm mind you) they used the same one as they did on the proton pack, size 16.

[halliwax]

Damn you guys are good!! I didn’t even see that! After I posted I saw the heat sink on another remembers build, but didn’t notice the switches!

Wicked cool

[halliwax]

So it is confirmed that members here helped build these packs?

I’m really involved in the Star Wars prop community, and what I love about it is production uses a lot of the members parts, or even has them work on set building props

I think there is nothing cooler then members here on the forum actually working on set

[halliwax]

Excuse my ignorance, but where does the circuit breaker, red light switch and heat sink go?

I can’t find them in the photo and just really curious

It amazes me some of you guys have gotten this far with the reference we have BEFORE this latest profile photo

Truly incredible

As stated above, the red switch is on the underside of the Ion arm and the circuit breaker is on the crank gen, just north of the yellow label.

In regards to finding these parts so far, there have been some people that have had some behind the scenes access. That has given us all a leg up on finding parts. While I can say with 99% certainty that the parts I have put together here are most likely accurate; some of the parts have not had clear public reference yet (such as the circuit breaker or the switch on the ion arm). So please take what is said here with a grain of salt. You're allowed to be skeptical.

The best I can do for you are these 2 images.

Ion arm switch:


Crank Gen Breaker Switch:


And placement on the pack (including the heat sink)


In these photos, you can at least see that they are there, but you can't ID what they are from these photos. Hopefully, once the film comes out, we will be able to get better reference of the props.

Thank you for explaining!! Really appreciate it!

[tobycj]

So it is confirmed that members here helped build these packs?

I’m really involved in the Star Wars prop community, and what I love about it is production uses a lot of the members parts, or even has them work on set building props

I think there is nothing cooler then members here on the forum actually working on set

Fincher Technologies has confirmed they supplied the ribbon cables. Pretty sure Freekygeeky did the wands, and I think AJ Quick has mentioned being involved in the supply of some parts, but specifically what yet. As far as I'm aware no one was on set, but certainly involved in the supply of some of the parts.

[mburkit]

Teaser BTS video from Tested.com

Here are some screen grabs!

Spinning light for the cyclotron electronics



Better shot of the pack itself


Better shot of the heatsink and breaker switch. Also looks like they made a male v-hook for the dixie bracket on the wand

[Austin]

Couple of confirmed details thanks to this video:


Gun hose connector mounted to the mobo with a square mouse hole on the shell.


MACHINED V-HOOK ON THE PACK! THANK GOZER! They are still 100% using the female piece of the dixie hook on the wand, though



GB2 mounting hardware all around. Super hero layout.


And finally, here you can see the crank gen switch.

[ecto88mph]

In that last photo does it look like that yellow sticker is peeling off?

[tobycj]

Seems like a very dark hole in the middle of the HGA label. I wonder if it's the label, or there is an actual hole there?

[mburkit]

So it is confirmed that members here helped build these packs?

I’m really involved in the Star Wars prop community, and what I love about it is production uses a lot of the members parts, or even has them work on set building props

I think there is nothing cooler then members here on the forum actually working on set

Oh, I know you're in the Star Wars Prop community as you have some of the best threads on the RPF and you are part of all the same lightsaber runs I am on. That and your youtube channel.

As far as members of the community participating in the production. I know of some; specifically the ones listed previously and a few others. I personally was not part of production. But I have been having conversations with people so hopefully we will probably know these props inside and out better than the original ghostbusters props from the 84 film.

[ecto88mph]

So it is confirmed that members here helped build these packs?

I’m really involved in the Star Wars prop community, and what I love about it is production uses a lot of the members parts, or even has them work on set building props

I think there is nothing cooler then members here on the forum actually working on set

Oh, I know you're in the Star Wars Prop community as you have some of the best threads on the RPF and you are part of all the same lightsaber runs I am on. That and your youtube channel.

As far as members of the community participating in the production. I know of some; specifically the ones listed previously and a few others. I personally was not part of production. But I have been having conversations with people so hopefully we will probably know these props inside and out better than the original ghostbusters props from the 84 film.

I'm really getting the feeling that this movie was made by fans for fans.