- August 16th, 2024, 9:48 am#4999564
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Hello! It's been awhile since my last build thread (My pack build was way back in 2011!)
and it's been fun to see just how many more opportunities there are not for building equipment, and how much more sophisticated we've all become
I've wanted to do an Ecto Goggles build since then, but other projects (mainly, raising children!) have kept my projects fairly small. A huge part of the enjoyment of this hobby for me is the actual building, filling, priming, sanding, painting, and problem solving. I didn't really want to just fully assemble a kit, I always want to learn a few new skills.
For this build, my 'in' was a recently purchased Bambu Lab P1S, and realizing a few of the GBfans members had been working on Goggle models. Rather than buy the beautiful frame from the shop, I decided to 3D print the frame out of ABS, and try my best to sand and fill to make it not look like a 3D printed part. This was actually pretty fun.
I printed a frame from TheGoon, intending to do a fully 3D printed pair of goggles using NotSabbot's lenses. But, well, you know how it goes once you start putting time into a project. I opted to print with ABS to prevent any shrinkage or warping, and because it's fairly robust.
I found my preferred way to smooth out the layer lines was by wiping on a thin layer of DAP Plastic Wood filler, let it dry, sand, and repeat. I did this for a couple of days until I had a pretty smooth base form. Then I used some Rust-Oleum Hi-build formula Filler Primer to check the surface and help fill in the finer lines.
During this process, I also stocked up on some dry transfers from Mack's Factory, and some other labels from VanOaks Props.
After a few passes priming/sanding/priming/etc, I was satisfied and gave everything a coat of matte black enamel.
And then a coat of Tamiya Olive Drab (TS-28). Once this had a day or two to cure, I was onto snaps! Snaps were a new thing for me on this project. For snaps, I used these:
Single Hex snap on top center - I used this secured DOT fastener from HolsterSmith
Single silver snap on the right rear corner - I used a leftover silver snap found in a sewing kit!
4 'strap' snaps on the sides of the frame - I used these Line 24 black oxide brass DOT fasteners from HolsterSmith on Amazon
For the 6 press studs on the face pad perimeter - I used pieces from this kit from Amazon
Attaching the snaps to the 3D print I had just spent a couple of weeks painstakingly priming and painting was VERY TRICKY. Especially those two snaps toward the lower front corners. The tool I had was a bit too wide to fully clamp the snaps down in that tight area, and I slightly damaged the frame trying to find a way to get them to secure. I ended up having to improvise a bit by using a really big pair of channel locks to squeeze a rod to crush down the center of each of those snaps. This was maybe the most difficult part of the build for me. Something I could have avoided by just buying the pre-snapped frames from the shop, but I wanted to do it myself!
At this point, I was trying to find something to use as a face pad. I considered laser-cutting foam, but liked the aesthetic of the shiny foam filled leather you see on some headphones from the 70s-80s. I found a third party Meta Quest face pad on Amazon that had this look, and while a little small vertically, I found a position that I was happy with on the frame. The pad is intended to Velcro to the frame it came on, so I just transferred some small sections of that Velcro over to my frames.
Now I was on to the final stretch, and was liking how things were shaping up so much that I decided to pull the trigger on a gorgeous set of GBfans goggle lenses. These things are so nice looking, and really help sell the Goggles as 'real' - If you have the means, I highly recommend them!
The lenses did take a little bit of modification to work in my 3D-printed frame. Namely, cutting out larger eye holes. I used the included metal plate to trace the eye hole size I needed, and carefully cut them out with a coping saw.
I also had to slightly modify the hole position on my frames for the side knobs, so they could attach to the inside lens plate.
For the bottom power knob, Dan Harshman had a good post on Spengler's Work Bench about how you don't really need a AN/PVS-5 bottom knob for these to be accurate. I didn't love the look of my 3D-printed knob, so opted to use a thumb-screw that I weathered a bit for my knob. From left to right: New thumbscrew, added a radial brush, and then dirtied up. I ended up painting it black, and scraping some of the paint back off and adding a white 'selector line' in the end.
And here are some shots of the final assembly!
And some more fun ones with another gorgeous prop that arrived the day I was wrapping these up...
And finally, another addition to the corner of my studio
Hello! It's been awhile since my last build thread (My pack build was way back in 2011!)
and it's been fun to see just how many more opportunities there are not for building equipment, and how much more sophisticated we've all become
I've wanted to do an Ecto Goggles build since then, but other projects (mainly, raising children!) have kept my projects fairly small. A huge part of the enjoyment of this hobby for me is the actual building, filling, priming, sanding, painting, and problem solving. I didn't really want to just fully assemble a kit, I always want to learn a few new skills.
For this build, my 'in' was a recently purchased Bambu Lab P1S, and realizing a few of the GBfans members had been working on Goggle models. Rather than buy the beautiful frame from the shop, I decided to 3D print the frame out of ABS, and try my best to sand and fill to make it not look like a 3D printed part. This was actually pretty fun.
I printed a frame from TheGoon, intending to do a fully 3D printed pair of goggles using NotSabbot's lenses. But, well, you know how it goes once you start putting time into a project. I opted to print with ABS to prevent any shrinkage or warping, and because it's fairly robust.
I found my preferred way to smooth out the layer lines was by wiping on a thin layer of DAP Plastic Wood filler, let it dry, sand, and repeat. I did this for a couple of days until I had a pretty smooth base form. Then I used some Rust-Oleum Hi-build formula Filler Primer to check the surface and help fill in the finer lines.
During this process, I also stocked up on some dry transfers from Mack's Factory, and some other labels from VanOaks Props.
After a few passes priming/sanding/priming/etc, I was satisfied and gave everything a coat of matte black enamel.
And then a coat of Tamiya Olive Drab (TS-28). Once this had a day or two to cure, I was onto snaps! Snaps were a new thing for me on this project. For snaps, I used these:
Single Hex snap on top center - I used this secured DOT fastener from HolsterSmith
Single silver snap on the right rear corner - I used a leftover silver snap found in a sewing kit!
4 'strap' snaps on the sides of the frame - I used these Line 24 black oxide brass DOT fasteners from HolsterSmith on Amazon
For the 6 press studs on the face pad perimeter - I used pieces from this kit from Amazon
Attaching the snaps to the 3D print I had just spent a couple of weeks painstakingly priming and painting was VERY TRICKY. Especially those two snaps toward the lower front corners. The tool I had was a bit too wide to fully clamp the snaps down in that tight area, and I slightly damaged the frame trying to find a way to get them to secure. I ended up having to improvise a bit by using a really big pair of channel locks to squeeze a rod to crush down the center of each of those snaps. This was maybe the most difficult part of the build for me. Something I could have avoided by just buying the pre-snapped frames from the shop, but I wanted to do it myself!
At this point, I was trying to find something to use as a face pad. I considered laser-cutting foam, but liked the aesthetic of the shiny foam filled leather you see on some headphones from the 70s-80s. I found a third party Meta Quest face pad on Amazon that had this look, and while a little small vertically, I found a position that I was happy with on the frame. The pad is intended to Velcro to the frame it came on, so I just transferred some small sections of that Velcro over to my frames.
Now I was on to the final stretch, and was liking how things were shaping up so much that I decided to pull the trigger on a gorgeous set of GBfans goggle lenses. These things are so nice looking, and really help sell the Goggles as 'real' - If you have the means, I highly recommend them!
The lenses did take a little bit of modification to work in my 3D-printed frame. Namely, cutting out larger eye holes. I used the included metal plate to trace the eye hole size I needed, and carefully cut them out with a coping saw.
I also had to slightly modify the hole position on my frames for the side knobs, so they could attach to the inside lens plate.
For the bottom power knob, Dan Harshman had a good post on Spengler's Work Bench about how you don't really need a AN/PVS-5 bottom knob for these to be accurate. I didn't love the look of my 3D-printed knob, so opted to use a thumb-screw that I weathered a bit for my knob. From left to right: New thumbscrew, added a radial brush, and then dirtied up. I ended up painting it black, and scraping some of the paint back off and adding a white 'selector line' in the end.
And here are some shots of the final assembly!
And some more fun ones with another gorgeous prop that arrived the day I was wrapping these up...
And finally, another addition to the corner of my studio
- By Rookie99
- By in_the_city
- By robbritton
- By BenjaminMarshall