#358903
Any idea what's causing the casting to stick to the mold? Could adding a slight slop to the line improve the ability to remove the mould? I admit it's not an idea I like, having to damage part of the casting in order to remove it, as it could undermine the structural integrity of the casting.
#358966
I think it's due to either some imperfections on the mold (undercuts, as it's called), or maybe due to the material of the mold itself, even though I'm using BABY POWDER as mold release. I completely agree with you, if I alter the molds, the integrity of the REAL FRAME shape could be compromised... that's why I didn't go with my wood, scratch-built mold because it was TOO BIG compared to the real one.

Someone from the ALGB suggested me to do a two-part molds, but I've mentioned that doing so will be difficult due to the cold weather outside, and I don't have a closed garage. I will fix the slit by EPOXY them... no one will see it or it will be barely visible.

Anyway, I've just ordered BLACK RESIN to make the battery cover and interruptor switch castings. Posting more later on.
#361565
MandoMan wrote:They look pretty damn good! Hopefully you can find a way to get them off the molds without cutting them.

By the way, just curious how thick of plastic you're using, and is it ABS?
Sorry for the lack of updates, being sick in the past two weeks and the weather is not helping either. The plastic is actually Black HIPS (High Impact Poly Styrene), @ .060" thick. My vacumm-forming machine / method is not strong enough to pull ABS, since I'm using the SHOP-VAC method, and not a vacuum pump.

I'm in the waiting stage for the DOT snappers; I've decided to include them with the kit.
#362742
-MORE UPDATES-

Finally, got to work on the castings of the face and inside plates for the goggles, not to mention another try on the goggle frame… SUCCESS!!! :gbdance:

First, the casting of the face plates and inner plates for the AN/PVS-5 goggles; the inside plates have the hole guides, while the faceplates SHOULD have them, but I’ll leave that to the owners,

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Now, I finally figured out the way to take the mold out of the casting without making the slits on the corners… by cutting away the “mouth” area of the casting, that way will allow me to manipulate the castings and remove the molds (with a little muscle power, though) without damaging either one,

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More to come soon. :cool:
#362842
-More updates-

This weekend is the LAST of the NICE WEATHER, so I’m expecting cold weather coming in during this week. But I’ve did 2 more pulls today (to make 4 frames).

Unfortunately, I ran out of plastic and I don’t have a response from the plastics supply company I got them from; and also one of the pulls didn’t come out right for some reason, and I didn’t even realized until it was time to cut the parts from the plastic sheet.

Here are the four pulls,

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Now, a comparison shot of the good pull (left), and the one that got kind of “not done yet” on the right,

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Good one:

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Bad one:

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They will be offered later on at reduced price due to the lack of detail, but the front and basic shape and size still the same.

I have more HIPS plastic left around, lots, but this one is .040”, making a little thinner than the .060” I’m currently using, not sure how reliable, durable, or strong it could come out once it’s out of the plugs. I just don’t want to make something that’s as thin as those plastic Halloween masks that could break within a week of wear… not to mention TOO FLEXIBLE or flimsy.

More to come soon. :cool:
#362981
-SHOWOFF-

My newly update in regards of the AN/PVS-5 frame FIBERGLASS casting I did for Cameron ECTO-DMC. (Please note: this is just for the frame, LENSES ARE NOT INCLUDED; those are actually the ones I did for Martha, which just placed them on top for reference purposes). Just to show how capable I could be. :cool:

All painted and weathered (snaps, battery cover and power switch), but the only thing missing are the decals, which I’m working on them as we speak. The replica is the one on the right.

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Close-up of the power switch knob casting and weathering.

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… and the battery cover casting. The silver screws are REAL, to hold the plastic diamond detail I’ve made to add to the battery cover castings… for a more realistic look as in the real one.

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Close-up detail of the paintjob on the “snaps” and “screws”… they could pass as REAL. The only REAL snaps are the silver ones that are meant to attach the head strap harness. Both cover and power switch could be removed at will since they're attached by screws from the inside. In fact... everything is attached with screws (NO GLUE AT ALL).

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#365226
I just Got my set pictured above from Rob sat at the ALGB Christmas Party All I can say is WOW they are WOW I mean WOW ! Worth the Wait and they look so much like the real deal its OMG WOW even the Vac formed ones are outa sight and would make any GB a Great pair of Ecto Goggles .


THANK you for going above and beyond and as soon as I make the Lenses and head strap I will get you the picture with Caitlin Wearing them ok Robert
Ecto Vader liked this
#366469
ECTO-DMC wrote:I just Got my set pictured above from Rob sat at the ALGB Christmas Party All I can say is WOW they are WOW I mean WOW ! Worth the Wait and they look so much like the real deal its OMG WOW even the Vac formed ones are outa sight and would make any GB a Great pair of Ecto Goggles .


THANK you for going above and beyond and as soon as I make the Lenses and head strap I will get you the picture with Caitlin Wearing them ok Robert
Can't wait to see the pics taken with the lenses and strap.

Guys, something it's not shown in the FG goggles, were the WATER SLIDE DECALS for the battery cover and power switch as in the real one, which I did put them myself at the ALGB Christmas Party when I delivered them... just DROOLING SIMILAR.

The goggles weight really close as the real ones with the lenses, but it was due to the extra resin at the front plate... measured mine @ about 10-12 oz average.
#372114
bigantkl wrote:Just bumping to see how these are progressing.
In time, my young PADAWAN... in time. Still waiting for the correct DOT snaps to arrive (yes, you'll get the REAL DEAL with the kit, once I put in the FOR SALE topic)... this, plus work is what's being keeping me busy and not too much progress lately, even though I have 8 frames ready. I just don't want to make mistakes, specially on the frames once they're formed.

Just be patient guys, I promise you'll be blown away with the kit once it's done and ready.
#372440
Here's a video of me making the VERY FIRST vac-formed goggles (from the first pictures)... sorry it took this long to post this video, but time's a "beyotch". BTW, I'm PUERTORICAN (born and raised... sorry for the THICK ACCENT, can't help it). :-P

http://youtu.be/3JEj26cfW14

Hope this video helps and inspires future prop-builders around here. :cool:

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